ukraine: kyiv: epiphany in the water

This is my 5th school year in Kyiv, Ukraine, but only my third year participating in the annual Epiphany tradition. This was my first year participating when there was a significant amount of ice on the river. It looks colder than it felt. Though I should point out that it took hours for my fingers and toes to warm up. The rest of me was normal in a few minutes, but my fingers and toes, eeeek!!

Romania: Bucharest

My flight left Naples late at night, arriving in Bucharest basically in the middle of the night. I stayed in the airport for a few hours, until the sun came up and it was a bit more reasonable to head into the city. 

I took a shuttle to the central train station, and from there walked to my hostel. It was a hostel, which I'm no longer a huge fan of, but I'd booked a private room. I was able to check in early, which was totally awesome. 

I rested for a while, then headed out to explore. The weather wasn't any fun, and didn't get any better all day. Sleet, freezing rain, snow, wind; they varied all day. 

Romania is a member of the EU, but is the poorest country in the organization. I knew Romania is part of the EU, so I expected the capital city to be slightly more modern, slightly more western. But it wasn't. I'm sure the weather didn't help my impression of the city either.

Also, I sometimes mix up Budapest and Bucharest, a common enough mistake. Not surprisingly, the people of each of these cities do not love this mistake, as the cities are nothing alike.
I noticed rather quickly there were churches tucked into small spaces on the streets. The churches weren't big and grand, but they were old, and still in use. Inside the churches I noticed small differences between the Orthodox churches I'm used to seeing in Kyiv and elsewhere, and those in Bucharest. Clearly Serbian Orthodox churches have their own ways of doing things.

There were benches along the walls, and the areas for lighting candles were outdoors, among other differences.
I came along a big sculpture, and couldn't help but wonder who the people depicted were.
I found the zero kilometer marker, in the yard area of St George's new church. It was a combination of a globe, and a compass, if that makes sense.
St George's new church was impressive. The mosaic and fresco decoration started in the covered, outside area in front of the church. I really really really wanted to take photos inside, but didn't at that point, as I wasn't sure if it was allowed.

My next destination was a synagogue. Unfortunately when I got there, it was closed. I had arrived about 15 minutes too late. Darnit.
I admit to stepping into a KFC next. Two reasons for this: I was cold, and I was hungry. I needed a place to sit down and warm up, and I needed protein. Chicken fingers are a wonderful food every now and again.
After warming up (remember that the weather was crappy,) I headed toward the city center area. Normally I would've taken a heap more photos, of anything and everything, but I got cold fast, and the weather didn't motivate me to be very touristy.

In the city center area I didn't step into many shops, and I scanned very few menus.
One of the sights mentioned on a travel app was an old bank building, I wasn't as impressed in person as I had hoped to be. There was a large glass area on the roof, but it wasn't clean, and hadn't been cleaned in who knows how long. I didn't go inside, but I bet I would've if it had been clean. Most of the time, I love big skylight buildings. At that point, it was also getting dark, so lighting wasn't any good anymore.
Across the street from the old bank building were two buildings of note: a museum and another tiny church. The inside of the church wasn't very impressive, neither was the outside. It was much more touristy, though I struggle to explain exactly how.

I decided to enter an ice cream parlor, and ended up buying a scoop of peach. I know I've mentioned the crappy weather, but that has never stopped me from eating ice cream. Plus, the cafe was quite cute, and had other choices if I hadn't wanted ice cream.
A couple blocks down, and one or two streets over I had a steak salad for dinner. It was okay, and I felt better for having eaten a proper meal.
The next day the weather was HEAPS better. Blue skies for the most part, which made all the difference in the world to my mood.
I walked a street called Calea Victoriei, one of the main streets in the city. Not in terms of vehicular traffic, but important nevertheless.
Near one end of this street, a couple blocks away I spotted a church. I am a sucker for churches. No matter how many I've seen in different places, they always catch my eye, and I'm always curious to see what is inside.

I love the variety in atmospheres, the variety in interior decorations, the variety in how different faiths are displayed.
This was St Joseph's cathedral. Big, red brick. I was the only one inside, and I enjoyed sitting for a few minutes. I was able to climb up stairs for a higher view, something I also always love.
Back on Calea Victoriei I came to the central university library. I didn't go inside, but the outside was very nice looking. Complete with a statue of a guy on a horse. Across the street from there I saw the Roman Athenaeum, which was really pretty. I think it is used as a theater now?

Other than a ticket office, I couldn't go inside. Argh. The snow that had fallen the day before made everything seem clean and bright.
On the far side of the Athenaeum was a small park area with a couple memorials. The memorial of note was an obelisk, tall and skinny. Officially called the memorial of Rebirth and Revolution. It wasn't very noteworthy to me, but maybe I haven't found all the information I should know.
My next stop was another church, with a difficult to pronounce name. Bretzulescu church. Another church with an outdoor area for lighting candles. I did take photos in here. It was also small, and the interior decor was lovely. I don't know if services are still held here, because it was definitely old.
I found Bucharest postcards nearby, in a bookstore with really nice employees. I can't remember what we talked about, just that I walked away thinking that Romanian people are awesome.

I grabbed another protein snack, then looked at my watch.
One of the travel apps I use said Parliament Palace closed to tourists at 1300, and would be closed the next day, so that day was going to be my last chance to see the world's second largest building. I speed walked as fast as I could go, hoping I would make it in time for the last tour of the day. When I got there, I discovered the app was wrong, that the building didn't close until 1600. Thank goodness. I signed myself up for the next tour, and paid the photography fee as well. Go figure, that fee was higher than the tour fee. Argh.

To be issued visitor ID for the tour, I had to turn in my passport. This made me really nervous, as I am always really nervous to let go of the single most important thing I own.
Our guide took us through just 5-10% of the building. Parliament Palace is so big that it was still a kilometer or so in just that small percentage. The rooms are huge and grandiose. There is a lot of gold gilt, and heaps of chandeliers. Apparently Ceaucescu's wife loved them. I've forgotten the number of chandeliers in the building, but it felt like they were in every room, and many hallways as well. Crystals everywhere.

Allegedly, all the materials used in the building come from Romania, but there is some doubt as to whether that is true. There are approximately 12 floors, though only 4 of them are aboveground. I don't know if the answers are completely unknown, or the government doesn't want to give out specifics for fear of some kind of security issues.
Some of the rooms are available for rent, in case you want to get married here. I don't.
Building started in 1984, continued 24 hours a day for about 5 years. The Ceaucescus lost their lives as a result of a peoples' revolution, they never lived in the building.

The Ceaucescus had originally intended for the building to house them, and provide the government with space for administration and legislation. To make space for the palace, some 30,000 homes were destroyed, and quite a few churches/synagogues/etc were destroyed or moved. The city and people lost when the Ceaucescus decided to feed their egos. 
Due to the season, there was no option for us to go out on the big balcony. During summer months that is a tour add on, you get to see quite a ways over the city. In cold, icy weather I'm guessing the Romanian government doesn't want to take the chance that a visitor/tourist will slip and fall.

The most famous person to speak on the balcony was the first foreigner on the balcony. His name was Michael Jackson, and his first sentence was 'I love Budapest!' Not surprisingly, that didn't go over well with the local population.
On the way out I was relieved to collect my passport.
From the balcony of the palace, you can see a long way down what was supposed to be called Victory Boulevard. Not too far off this boulevard I found a small monastery, called Antim. The church was small, as were the other buildings in the complex. I liked the mosaics on the front of the church, they were depictions of saints I think.

I walked back to the street I'd walked down the day before. I went back to the zero kilometer marker, and took more photos, since the sky was so much prettier.
I walked all the way up this street to the Arch of Triumph. This was a long walk, the street had plenty of traffic. On the way, I passed a house built as a replica of the rodin museum in Paris. I also passed another memorial in the middle of a traffic circle, I think it was something military.
I got to the Arc de Triumf at the perfect time in terms of lighting. The sky was changing colours, and I had fun with a camera.

I also took a look in a nearby church. The exterior was white and grand, but the interior wasn't yet finished. There was a lot of dark concrete. It will probably be nice looking when it is finished, wheneva that happens.
After walking back toward the city center, I stopped in a cafe specializing in tea. Yum, and relaxing. I found another restaurant for dinner, it wasn't as good as I wanted it to be.
The next morning I woke up to another day of not so good weather. It wasn't raining, or snowing, but the skies were grey and the wind was back. Argh.

I got information from the front desk of my hostel, and tried to take a day trip to a place called Mogosoaia. To make this work I had to buy another card for public transport, apparently there are several systems in the city, and they don't work together. So annoying. This card was enough to get me to a bus stop where I should've been able to catch the last bus I needed. I stood there for over 30 minutes, watching quite a few other buses come by. I never saw the bus I wanted, so I gave up. I took a bus back toward the city center, and came up with a new plan for the day.

I went back to the tea shop from the day before, this time I had dessert in addition to my tea. Definitely better :)
I walked back to the main street I'd walked both days previously, and stopped into the Italian church. It was pretty.
I continued walking until I found the church of St Spiridon. It was lovely. Green interior with lots of colour. I would've been happy to stay in there for a while, the atmosphere was so welcoming. I chatted with a priest for a little while, I think he was curious about why I was there. The cupola was fantastic, and goes with one of my travel mottos, always look up.
I walked to University Plaza, which wasn't very exciting. I chatted with a guy in French for a while. I didn't understand everything, but I could tell he just wanted to talk. I found a church just off the platz, I think it was a student church? The outside was under construction/renovation but the interior was nice. I'm definitely a fan of all the churches I saw in Bucharest.

I went back to the hostel, and charged my phones. I should've uploaded the photos on my phone, but didn't, and came to regret that very soon.
I walked to the train station, and didn't have to wait long for a bus to the airport. Somehow, during the minute or two that I was waiting, my phone was stolen from my pocket. I realized it almost immediately, and was gutted to realize it was gone. I was upset that it was gone, and that I would have to buy another one, but I was most upset to remember I hadn't uploaded my photos. I'd lost all the photos I'd taken on that phone since arriving in Prague. Argh Argh Argh.
To sum it up, I have very mixed feelings about my visit to Bucharest. The weather wasn't great, it was downright nasty for one of the days, and my phone was stolen. At the same time, I got to see the capital of an interesting country, meet some nice people, and enjoy more churches. I'd like to go back, someday.

czech republic: new years eve in prague

I don't know how many times I've been to Prague in the past few years, but I'm always happy to come back. Again and again.

Ken invited me to go to Prague for New Years, along with a bunch of his friends, I said yes. I found a cheap flight arriving the day earlier than everyone else, I was happy to book it. 

I had a day in Kyiv between Georgia and Prague, and at one point I went to school to print out my boarding pass for the Prague flight. I had no desire to be charged to print it at the airport

My flight left Kyiv at 0400, and with a brief stopover in Kosice, arrived in Prague at 0630 or so in the morning, well before sunrise. I hung out in the airport for a couple hours,  doing some online stuff (yay for free airport wifi) and charging my phones. 

I used public transport, the same way Mom and I always got back into the city from the airport: a bus, then the metro. I got to where I'd booked accommodation, and found out if have to wait a couple more hours to check in. 

I kept my pack on (I didn't have anywhere else to put it, but I was dying to give my shoulders a break,) and started walking. I'd booked a place near Flora metro station, so I walked to a sight of wanted to see for a while. 

The grave of Franz Kafka is not near the city center, and I think that's the only reason it doesn't have heaps and heaps of visitors. It does get visitors, but it's a bit of a trek from the old city area.

As the area has several graveyards next to each other, I stepped into two others by mistake while trying to find the right place. Kafka is buried in a Jewish cemetery, and his gravestone is written in Hebrew. The gravestone itself isn't anything unique compared to others, but you notice it because of the flowers and other items sitting in the plot.

I walked back to my hotel, which was more of a room in a flat. I was able to check in early, and relax for a bit, I loved the room. 

I walked to a metro station, and got off at a station very close to troja bridge, definitely not an area frequented by most tourists. I walked across the bridge (which is white, and very modern,) and kept walking, toward my intended destination. 

I walked to troja palace, only to discover that it is closed from November through April. Darn it. I should've paid more attention when looking at travel apps. The palace looks totally different from others in the city, it's a shade of pink, and has extensive landscaped gardens. I walked all the way around, just in case someone had accidentally left open an entry, but I was disappointed. Argh.

I walked back toward the metro, to another building that had caught my eye. It turned out to be the Expo Center, and elements of the architecture are not the same as the rest of the city. There was a temporary ice skating rink set up in the middle of the complex, it looked popular with young families. 

I got back on the metro and went to malostranska, at the bottom of castle hill There are always heaps of tourists pouring out of this station, not so many locals. 

I walked from there to a memorial is wanted to see for a while, but had only just figured out where it was/is located. It's called the memorial to the victims of communism, and is notable in two ways: first, you can't miss the 'people.' Second, the inscription, which talks about the people who were in charge at that time, in less than flattering words. I took photos of both the sign and the sculptures, but no selfies. Why would anyone smile with that topic? 

There is a church near that memorial, I stepped inside. Very, very, baroque. Surprisingly loud, I'm used to more of a loud whisper.

I used maps and apps to find another sight I'd wanted to see for a while: the Lennon Wall. It is just a flat wall, covered in graffiti, which is added to quite regularly. It was first used by students as a way to speak out against the government, without being so noticeable. During this visit there was a man busking, standing against the wall. Guess who's music he was playing? 

On my way back to the old town city center I stopped at a place I'd seen before, the exhibit of Czerny's babies. They are unique, to say the least. 

Back in the old town square, I noticed the marking of a meridian on the ground. I don't know which meridian this is. Writing was in Czech and Latin. 

Since I was in the area, I decided to find and check on the accommodation that had been arranged for everyone coming in the next day. I found it, loved the view, and got in touch with the landlord. 

I found another church I hadn't seen previously, and stepped in. I had just a few minutes, since it was closing time, I made a mental note to return. Despite being big and baroque, it felt warmer and more welcoming. 

I made my way back to Charles bridge, and walked up the hill. I'd seen one of the pasts of the castle a couple years ago, but wanted to see the whole thing this time. I checked prices, thinking I would come back with friends. I also watched the soldiers guarding the palace for a few minutes. Since I already had a photo with one of them, I was happy to watch other tourists take that same photo. 

Further up the hill, kind of behind the castle, I found Loreta Monastery. How did I not know this was here? Especially since it is so close to the castle. It isn't big, and there is an extra camera fee, but I enjoyed walking around. I really liked the treasury, as everything is displayed really well. Lots of gold and sparkle, to say the least. 

At this point I walked back down the hill and back across Charles bridge. (If you do this often enough, you get pretty good at walking quickly, weaving in and out of the hords. I thought about walking all the way back to where I was staying, but I realized I was hungry, so I opted for a tram. I grabbed dinner from the food court in the mall nearby. 

The next morning I checked out, which just involved me leaving the key on my bed and walking out of the building. I walked back toward the old town, on streets I hadn't walked previously. There is always a new street to walk, always. 

I remembered another sight from my last visit with mom that I wanted to see again. It was another of Czerny's work: Kafka's head. Spinning, random. It's nice to watch for a few minutes. The weather was great, so I stayed longer just because I could. 

Even though it was nowhere near time for checking, I was able to drop my bag at the group accommodation location. My shoulders felt soooo light afterward. I found lunch (yes, I got moving a lot later than I'd wanted in the morning,) at a tiny place nearby. Typical fried Czech food, including fried cheese. 

After that I got myself another chimney, one of those 'snacks' I don't need. It tastes like a cinnamon roll, but is shaped differently, and has fillings. YUM! 

I walked for hours, enjoying the weather, enjoying the atmosphere, watching people. Prague is an amazing city. 

Everyone arrived, they all got settled. Ken and I decided to go for Indian food for dinner, YUM.

The next morning ken and I wanted to go to the KGB museum, but found out it was closed until January 6. Darn it. Why close a place of interest during a time of year when you would have more than normal visitor numbers? We found it somewhat ironic that this museum is located right by the U.S. Embassy. 

We continued up castle hill, and I stood in the queue for tickets. It was longer than I expected, but it moved quickly. Unfortunately we had another queue to get into St Vitus' cathedral. The entrance is stunning, but not easy to take a photo, as you can't step back very far. This queue didn't move so fast, and we were in the shade. Chilly. 

It was cold inside the cathedral as well, and you're dealing with heaps of people, but it is still impressive. Stained glass windows everywhere. History everywhere. Faith everywhere. I wish it was possible to be there when it's empty and quiet. 

The next sight on our tickets was the Old Palace. I was really disappointed, as you only get to see a few rooms, and very little furniture. You're not supposed to take photos, but I saw a lot of cameras and phones clicking away. I took one myself, in the throne room I think. 

Then we walked to St. George's church. It is a lot smaller, and this was my first time inside. There are no stained glass windows in this one, it isn't nearly as light inside. Well, there is light but it isn't natural light. You end up in a queue to see what is left of frescoes in the front, near the altar. It's okay I suppose. You also get to peek into the crypt, which isn't big, nor ornate. 

Our tickets also included the Golden Lane, another area I hadn't seen previously. For me, it was another disappointment. It's supposed to be cute and all, and it is, but I didn't really see history like I wanted to see. The houses and buildings are quite small, but now they are just filled with tourist shops.

There are a few jewelers, which is how it got its name, but it just wasn't what I thought. Nevertheless, I took a couple photos of Ken next to a door or two, because he is tall and the doors are not. That was the best part of the Golden Lane for me. I won't go there again.

We walked back down the hill, and crossed another bridge. We Braves the crowds enough so that I could get another chimney as a snack. Did I need it? No. Did I want it? YES! Then we had lunch at a random cafe on the old city square. The lobster soup actually tastes like lobster. 

We went back to the group flat to relax for a few hours before getting ready for the evening. The last two members of our group arrived, as they hadn't been able to get the extra day off, like everyone else.

In addition to the group staying in this flat, as the evening wore on more and more people came to hang out for a while. I had no idea so many people had come from Naples. It was fun to get ready with friends, new and old. 

Then we all went out for New Years Eve. I can't remember the last time I've done that. And this was a real night out! Tickets bought ahead of time and everything. The price included entry to the club, a glass of champagne, (which I didn't drink of course,) a buffet meal (the salmon was surprisingly good, and time on the dance floor. The dance floor was upstairs, and led to a balcony overlooking Wenceslas Square. 

I have to admit, it was pretty awesome. We could see fireworks going off the whole evening, especially at countdown time. Plus it started snowing at some point, which just made the whole thing awesome.

Not surprisingly, (at least not to me,) I was awake before everyone else the next morning. After playing on my phone for a while, I went out for a walk around 0830. We were staying close to the old city square, so I got to see that completely empty, with some of the remnants from the night before. And the snow, or at least what little had built up and was still there. 

Somehow, the shimmery place was open, so I had another. In case you're counting, that is three in three days. I don't know if it was officially open, but they were willing to make me one :)

As the square was empty, so was the bridge. Well, almost. And almost was good enough for me. Too bad it was a hazy gray sky, not blue or stunning like you see in the postcards and photos. 

There was no one else at the Lennon wall, and no one else by Czerny's babies. I love early mornings! 

I made my way back to the bridge by the Rudolfinium, and crossed back over to the old city side. I made my way to the old city square, using streets I'd never walked before. Since this is Prague, of course I passed a church or two along the way, both of themhad services going on. I had no idea this happens, but apparently mid morning on New Years Day is a normal time for a church service. 

When I got back to the flat, everyone was awake. Some people were feeling better than others, of course ;)

Some folks had already gone out, including Megan and Ken. I went to find them, getting all the way to the far end of Wenceslas Square before figuring out where they were. I sat with them in a restaurant for a little while before leaving. 

I met my mom back in the old city square, we chose one of the nearby cafes at which to have lunch. I have to admit it was a bit strange to be staying in Prague, but not at moms flat. She and I had a nice lunch, catching up and enjoying each other's company. Ken came by for a little while, since he's met her 8 months earlier. 

Mom and I walked toward the Klementinum, as I was interested in taking a tour. When we got to the cashier, we found out the next tour didn't leave for another hour or so, and neither one of us wanted to wait. You're not allowed to wander through by yourself, darn it. 

On the way back to the old city square I convinced mom to have a chimney with me. We tried the apple strudel chimney, it wasn't nearly as good as the berry version. I won't make that mistake again. 

Mom and I walked for a while, then I walked her to a metro station so she could go back to her flat. A little while after I got back to the group flat, the group went to a nearby Thai place for dinner. Yum.

The next morning I was up early again, it's just normal for me. Megan and Will were up early as well, as will was hoping to catch a bus to Dresden. Megan and I walked back through the old city square to Charles Bridge, which was mostly deserted. It was quiet again, my favorite type of atmosphere. 

We crossed the bridge, and I took her tithe Lennon Wall and Czerny's babies. Good fun. Megan is a good amateur photographer, so I asked for a few photos :)

Using texting, we had made plans to meet ken and scott for breakfast at Cafe Savoy. I'd never heard of the place, probably because I don't make a point of going out to eat in Prague. It is a French, somewhat fancy, breakfast kind of place. 

Megan and I arrived first, and asked for a table. The hostess was quite rude and made no effort to accommodate us. She told us the four of us would have to sit separately, at tables across the room from each other.

Fortunately, someone else (another employee,) walked by the hostess and suggested moving two tables together in another area, and the problem was solved. Breakfast was good, and the service was good. (Except for the hostess, of course.) The menu had heaps of choices for tea, even listing which garden where they'd been grown. 

After eating we walked to the nearby victims of communism monument, and took a moment to ponder. 

Next, we walked to another bridge over the river, another one is never crossed before. I don't know why. It took us to the front of the national theater. I really wish I could go inside when there is no performance taking place. 

We followed that street back toward our flat, it was a new street for me. We stopped once, to go into the supermarket that has my favourite yogurt. Heaven. Our next stop was Palladium Mall, where we met up with will. His trip to Dresden had not worked out, so he was keen to find something else to do. 

There was mention of going on a tour of communist Prague, but I had no interest. Given my family history, I don't (currently) have any interest in a tour for such things. I will ask mom or dad if I want to know more. Instead of the tour, ken and I went to Hooters, megan joined us after a bit. 

After a while, we went back to the flat and cleaned the flat a bit. Ken went with some members of the group to an Rscape Room. I don't know why, but I had no interest, so I stayed at the flat. 

At some point I left the flat with Jon and Jackie, we made our way through the old city square to the river. We walked along the river for a while, then turned left, going up the hill at the Dnving House, into the Prague 2 section of town. Eventually we got to our destination, a hotel. 

Not just any hotel, this hotel had a beer spa!!!!! A BEER SPA!!!! After waiting a bit for the group before us to leave, we got into swimwear, and the lady gave us instructions.

There were three wooden runs, in which there was water and hops. (I think it was hops, maybe it was something else? Under the tubs were kegs of beer, you get to drink as much as you want while you are in the tub. I told ken, will, Jon, megan, and Jackie that I was counting on them to drink for me.

We added a lot of hot water and soaked for 40 minutes. It felt good.

The next room had heated tables, and massage chairs. A bit of heaven, we would all have liked to stay several hours more. After it was over, we showered, changed, and took über cars back to the group flat. 

The next morning, most of us were up very early to catch uber cars to the airport for a flight to Naples. 

Another fantastic visit in Prague.