I didn't originally intend to visit
Ivano Frankivsk during this trip, but train schedules made it
necessary to spend the day in the city. Wikipedia tells me the city
is called Frank by locals, but who knows. Wikipedia also tells me
that the name of the city is relatively new, it was known as
Stanislav until 1962.
Ivano Frankivsk is the capital of the
oblast, so of course it is where I had to come to go and get back to Kyiv
from my days in the Carpathian Mountains. On the way back, I had to take a train from
the mountains that arrived in Ivano Frankivsk at 0440, in the
morning.
Since it was still before dawn I found the waiting room in the train station and dozed for almost four hours.
Since it was still before dawn I found the waiting room in the train station and dozed for almost four hours.
When I finally left the station I
walked along a road that brought me to a church. (Surprise, a church
in Ukraine.) This one wasn't listed on a travel app anywhere, it was
just a 'regular' church. There were two beggars sitting out front. I
didn't give them anything, but felt sortof guilty about it. The
church wasn't exciting or unique in any way.
From there I kept walking, and the road
took me to a giant government building. I think it was the general
administration building for the entire oblast (state.) I didn't go
in, as I'm pretty sure it isn't open for tours. I remember this
building from my first visit, when there was a protest camp set up on
the square in front. (The protest camp was the local 'branch' of the
protest camp in Kyiv.) There was a statue of someone in front of the
building, but that's it time time around.
On an adjacent street was where I spent
the next couple hours. I went into a cafe and stayed there for a
while, just because I could. Their wifi worked relatively well, which
was also nice.
From the cafe I could see both the
government building and another church. I don't know the name of this
church, but it is listed in guidebooks and on travel apps. In my head
I think of it as the blue church. I peeked into the church, but saw
immediately that there was a private ceremony taking place, so I
backed out straightaway.
My walk took me to City Hall, which is
unique as far as city halls go, especially in this country.
The shape is distinct, and there is a gold dome on top. The sign on the front of the building says it is the only secular building in the country with a gold dome on top.
The shape is distinct, and there is a gold dome on top. The sign on the front of the building says it is the only secular building in the country with a gold dome on top.
Like Lviv, the city hall in Ivano
Frankivsk has a tower, and visitors can climb the stairs up to the
observation deck. I walked in the front door and paid my fee to climb
(only 20 griven, less than a dollar,) and up I went. The top two
thirds of the climb was on very tight spiral staircases. The spirals
were so tight I was almost dizzy from spinning around so much.
The view was nice. It wasn't
spectacular, but I enjoyed looking out over the city. It was cold and
windy, I could feel the wind a lot while I was up there.
There was also a museum in City Hall,
but I skipped that. I saw some artwork on the walls but I"m not
much of an art museum person, especially when I have limited time.
Back down the stairs and out of the
building, and I kept walking. I wasn't looking at a map, and ended up
going in the opposite direction of where I'd intended, but oh well. I
ended up in a giant local market area. Stalls selling everything from
food to clothing to toiletries, etc... I didn't need or want any of
it, but it was nice to walk through and look. Part of the market is
in a large circular building, which looked different if nothing else.
I circled around the entire market,
then headed back in the direction I'd originally wanted to go. I got
to what I thought was a church, but it turned out to be another art
museum. I'm pretty sure it was originally a church. There is a bell
tower with this church, but it is out front of the church. I thought
about going in the museum, but opted to skip it at this point. I
wonder if the bells ever ring.
Not too far from the church/art museum
was another church, the Holy Ressurection Church. The front facade is
tall, but not particularly exciting. The inside of the church is
gorgeous.
It's not a place I will ever want to worship, as it is too busy, but I definitely appreciate the beauty of the art. The entire interior is painted in bright colours, with a lot of variety in the colours. The iconostasis at the front is gold, a few levels high. There are a few pews in which you can sit, which told me it wasn't an Orthodox church, as those don't have pews for worshippers. This was a Greek Catholic Church.
It's not a place I will ever want to worship, as it is too busy, but I definitely appreciate the beauty of the art. The entire interior is painted in bright colours, with a lot of variety in the colours. The iconostasis at the front is gold, a few levels high. There are a few pews in which you can sit, which told me it wasn't an Orthodox church, as those don't have pews for worshippers. This was a Greek Catholic Church.
There were people coming in regularly,
both people who wanted to pray and those who were visitors like me. I
took my photos, but I also sat for a few minutes and enjoyed the
atmosphere.
It's absolutely beautiful.
It's absolutely beautiful.
From the church I walked to City Lake.
When I'd been in the city for a couple hours on Saturday morning I'd
walked to the lake but I hadn't had time to walk around. This time I
had plenty of time, so I walked all the way around the lake. The path
isn't in good condition, though some repairs are being done. I
imagine there are more people walking around the lake in better
weather. (It was a nice day, but windy and much colder than I wanted
for the middle of May.)
There is a small island in the middle
of the lake, with benches and a couple photo taking spots. Nothing
worth getting excited about. I liked the bridge to get to the island
better than the island itself.
When I got back to where I'd started I
made my way to City Park, not too far away. There is a main
pedestrian walkway through one side of the park, good for strolling.
There are a number of paved paths through the trees in another area,
with benches for sitting. (I saw entirely too many couples sitting
and making out – or more – on those benches.)
There are a couple small ponds in the
park, but neither one of them had good water circulation, I could see
stuff growing that shouldn't be growing in a well circulated body of
water. The park is a great place for people watching.
I walked back toward the city center
and somehow found the tourism information center, which I'd missed
earlier in the day. They had a few postcards, and magnets. This was
where I found out the city has only had the name of Ivano-Frankivsk
since 1962. Before that it was called Stanislav.
Interestingly, I noticed the name of
Stanislav (in several languages!) on more than one manhole cover
while I walked around the city.
Also in the city center was a pink and
white library building. Probably not the colours I would've chosen,
but hey, who am I to say?!?
There were small stalls selling coffee and sandwiches and the like, but not all of them were open. I suppose they will be when the weather is guaranteed to be better.
There were small stalls selling coffee and sandwiches and the like, but not all of them were open. I suppose they will be when the weather is guaranteed to be better.
From there I walked to dinner, which I
had in the same place I'd had lunch. To get to this cafe I walked
past the blue church again, and go figure, it was hosting another
private ceremony! Will I ever get to go inside this church?
I hung out in the cafe for a few hours,
eating and drinking. From there it was a short walk back to the train
station. My train left about ten minutes late and I arrived on time
in Kyiv the next morning.
I would like to come back to this
region, but probably not back to Ivano-Frankivsk except for transit.