I've
been fascinated with geopolitics for a long time. I love learning
about how people view themselves, and when those views become strong
enough to want to be separate. I think there are 195 official
countries (as defined by the UN,) in the world, though there are a
number of territories and areas that function as separate entities,
but are not internationally recognized as separate. There are two
more countries that are recognized by some others, but not enough of
the rest of the world to be considered officially recognized
countries: Taiwan and Kosovo.
It's
the separate areas that fascinate me the most, those that function by
themselves, but have little to no official recognition. I took a few
days to visit one of them, which calls itself the Pridnestrovian
Moldavian Republic. The short name used more often is Transnistria,
which is a whole lot easier to say.
Transnistria
is basically the easternmost sliver of Moldova. Most of the republic
is on the eastern side of the Dniester River, between the river and
the Ukrainian border. Moldovan law actually defines the area, and
designates it as an autonomous part of Moldova. In reality,
Transnistria functions as a completely separate country.
The
history of Transnistria is complicated, as are the histories of many
countries in this part of the world. The area has been part of
Ukraine, Moldova, and more. The capital city of Tiraspol was probably
founded all the way back in 600BC, so there has been habitation here
for a very very long time.
I
reckon most people don't really know where Transnistria is, and have
only a vague recollection of the name. This vague recognition
probably comes from the early 90s, when the collapse of the Soviet
Union caused total chaos in this part of the world.
Former Soviet
republics were struggling to figure out independence, and areas like
Transnistria wanted to separate from Moldova, which was basically a
new country anywho.
My
journey started with a flight from Moscow to Chisinau, the capital of
Moldova. The flight was in the middle of the night, which wasn't as
bad as it sounds. After hanging out in the airport for a few hours it
was easy to catch a marshrutka to the city center, getting off at a
stop near the central bus station. From there it was easy to get on a
marshrutka to Tiraspol. The hardest part was figuring out how much I was supposed to pay, as I don't understand Moldovan.
The
drive from Chisinau to Tiraspol is easy, though a bit nervewracking
when you get to the official border. Since Transnistria is not
officially recognized, there is no stamping of passports when you
'leave' Moldova. Moldova doesn't even have border control officers at
the border. Transnistrian soldiers investigate your passport, and
print out a paper visa for your visit.
The
soldiers at the border asked me where I was staying, so I'm glad I
had booked a place ahead of time. It seemed like there was a list of
some sort, because the name of the place I had booked was familiar to
the guy.
He also asked how many days I planned to stay, that
information went into a computer as well. The paper visa goes in your
passport, then you give it back when you leave Transnistria. Passport
stamp geeks like me wish there was a stamp, but I understand why
there isn't. Maybe sometime in the future.
I
stayed on the marshrutka as it went through the city of Tiraspol,
only getting off at the last stop, which happened to be the train
station. As I'm a sucker for train stations, I walked through the
train station before turning around and walking in the general
direction of my accomodation.
Since
I'd known I wouldn't have service for my phone, I'd dowloaded maps to
my phone ahead of time, which made it easy to figure out where to go.
Thank goodness for modern technology. Not far from the train station
I noticed a sign (in Russian, English, and Moldovan,) pointing to a
tourist information center. I had a general idea of what I wanted to
see in the city, but I figured it would be a good idea to see what
the info center had.
It was
a great idea to walk into the tourist information center. They gave
me a paper map of the city, as well as information about specific
buses to go to other cities, and where some things were located.
They
spoke good English, I had no troubles with communication.
I
checked into my accomodation and ended up taking a short nap. This is
when I point out that the local temperature was over 30C in Tiraspol,
significantly warmer and more humid than Moscow. I don't like taking
naps, but my body needed the rest after the lack of sleep, and
increased temperatures and humidity.
Eventually
I started walking and exploring, I didn't end up spending that much
time walking that day. Definitely not as long as I should've
explored. Oh well. I started by walking toward Pobeda Park.
Heaps of
Russian cities have this kind of a park. More often than not there is
a WW2 memorial in this park, but that wasn't the case in Tiraspol.
There wasn't much of anything in the park, though I did appreciate
the entrance gate. There weren't many people in the park either, but
that was probably because of the heat.
I
exchanged money not far from the park. Since Transnistria isn't
officially recognized, they don't have an internationally recognized
bank. I saw a couple ATMs, but I think they dispensed Moldovan lei,
which wouldn't have been very useful.
Transnistria does have their
own currency, called the ruble. It's value is pegged to the Moldovan
lei, the ruble is slightly stronger than the lei. I exchanged Russian
rubles for Transnistrian rubles, hoping that I guessed right about
how much I would need for three days.
Leaving
the park I made my way to one of the main streets of the city: 25
October street. The date is from Russian history, as it is the date
in 1917 when the Bolsheviks captured the Winter Palace in St
Petersburg and therefore took control of the country.
Walking
the length of 25 October street takes you past nearly everything
there is to see in Tiraspol. I saw the front of the theatre, which
was quite grand. I walked past the House of Soviets, stopping to take
a photo because there was a bust of Lenin in front. Another grand
building, typical of every house of Soviets I've seen.
I
walked into a bookstore, most of the books were in Russian. I found a
city sign, and took a photo even though I'm pretty sure I had sweat
rolling off me by that point. 25 October street doesn't have shady
places to walk, the direct sun was soooo hot.
A
block off this street, not far from the city sign I found a
supermarket. I was absolutely thrilled to see a few products from
Ukraine, as those don't exist in Russia these days. It was air
conditioned, which felt absolutely fantastic at that point. I was
disappointed in the yogurt selection, there weren't many options.
I
love visiting supermarkets in general, and the chance to buy liquid
was sorely needed by this point.
After
gulping down a lot of water, I kept going. I found the city house of
culture, small but grand. It was right next to another park area,
this one with no shade whatsoeva. At one end of the mark was a
monument with a guy on a horse, as well as flags of all the regions
in Transnistria. There was also a series of flags with Russian
colours right next to an identical series of flags with Transnistrian
colours. There were giant flags of the countries of Transnistria as
well as Russia, flying at the same height.
I kept
going down the street, coming to the parliament building for
Transnistria. In front of the building is a big statue of Lenin, of
course I took a few photos. He stands on a tall pedestal, you have to
back up quite a bit to get all of him in a photo, with parliament in
the background.
Across
the street from parliament was the war memorial I knew had to be
somewhere in the city. I found a tank, an eternal flame, names carved
in stone, etc... One part of the area was a separate memorial for
soldiers who died during the Soviet war in Afghanistan. Transnistria was under Soviet control when that war happened (I think,) so this memorial makes sense.
On the
other side of the war memorial area was the river. I could see some
man made beach areas, I kinda wished I had brought a bikini to lay
out and actually enjoy the sun. I have no idea whether it is a good
idea to go in the water or not.
Even
though I'd only been outside for around 3 hours by then, I was
exhausted. My lower legs were showing the rash I get from heat
exhaustion, so I knew it was time to head back home. I stopped at a
restaurant for dinner, enjoying the air conditioning more than
anything. I crashed hard that night, which is typical for the first
night of any trip for me.
The
next morning I made it a point to get going earlier in the morning
than I usually do, to make up for lost time the day before. I walked
back to the supermarket, loading up on more liquid and snacks for the
day. From there I walked to a stop to catch a marshrutka to a town
called Bender (or Bendery, depending on who you ask.)
I got
off the marshrutka near the center of Bender, hoping it wouldn't be
hard to find where to catch one going back to Tiraspol later in the
day.
First
up for me was walking along Lenin Street, to the Lenin statue. He
hadn't been cleaned in a while, I could see a lot of yellow pollen
dust all over the statue. Ick. I kept going, all the way to the end
of the street, where I found a train station.
This
train station was much better than the one I'd seen in Tiraspol,
though I think it gets far less traffic.
There was no one inside
while I was there, but the doors were unlocked, and I could see signs
designating a ticket office, so there had to be someone I couldn't
see. The stairs and ceiling were quite grand, I was thrilled.
On one
side of the train station was a train monument, as well as a war
memorial. Very similar to what I've seen in various Russian cities.
On the way back to the city center of Bender I looked at some of the
street signs on the buildings. More than one of them listed names in
Russian and Moldovan, as well as historical names of the street. I
love that kind of stuff.
I
walked to a big traffic circle, in the middle of which was a stelae
showing that Bender is a city of military glory. I didn't know that
designation happened outside of Russia, but it obviously does. On one
side of the traffic circle was an older tank, with another war
memorial. Again, typical of a Russian city.
From
there it was a looooong walk to my next sight, in very little shade.
I was really glad I'd brought water with me, and even happier when I
saw another supermarket just as I got to where I wanted to go next.
I love
big monuments, this one definitely qualified. It was a victory arch,
like those I've seen in Moscow and St Petersburg and Irkutsk and
Astrakhan, etc... Just past the arch was another big gate of sorts,
the gate marked the entry of a military cemetery. I would've walked
through more of the cemetery, but it was now the middle of the day,
and the sun was strong. Instead I headed for the supermarket across
the road.
Inside
the supermarket I walked around until I found a vent from which cold
air streamed out. I stood under that for a good five minutes, it felt
incredible.
Ice cream and more water were the perfect purchases. I
noticed chocolate for sale, how does anyone eat that in this weather?
Then I
got to suffer through more sun to walk to the last place I wanted to
see in Bender: a fortress. There was a much higher entry fee for
foreigners, something that never fails to irritate me. This fortress
is the first thing to visit on tourism lists, but I wasn't as
impressed as I wanted to be. It had been renovated not too long ago,
and I felt like it looked new.
This
fortress goes all the way back to when this area was part of the
Ottoman Empire.
The outer walls have been rebuilt, as have the towers
in various places. You can climb stairs to a walkway along the top of
half the walls. There isn't much in the middle of the grounds, it is
mostly green grass with a couple walkways. Honestly, I didn't think
it was worth the entry fee.
There
was a church near the fortress, but it wasn't open, argh.
As I
walked back into the center of Bender, I followed a couple
buses/marshrutkas and found the main starting point for city buses,
and from there it was easy to get back to Tiraspol.
Since I'd enjoyed
my dinner the night before, I went back to the same place :)
Before
going to sleep that night I made a specific list of what I wanted to
see the next day, my last day in Transnistria.
The
next morning I was up early again, and actually managed to get myself
out the door by mid morning. First on the list was a photo at the
city sign for Bender, then a stop at another, much bigger city sign
for Tiraspol. Those two signs weren't all that far from each other,
the cities aren't far from each other.
My
first sight back in the city of Tiraspol was a history museum. I was
disappointed again to find another foreigner entry fee, sigh. Nothing
was in English, so my extra money went I don't know where. The
foreigner price was three times the local price, so I feel like I
have a legitimate complaint there.
The
museum was decent. There were several rooms with different parts of
Transnistrian history. I saw traditional Ukrainian clothing and
culture, uniforms of soldiers from various wars, products produced in
Transnistria, etc... Looking out the window in one of the back rooms
I was thrilled to see another statue of Lenin.
After
leaving the museum I tried to figure out how to get to Lenin. It
turned out that the statue was in an area behind a locked gate, sigh.
As I walked by that gate, it opened, and a truck drove through. I
took the chance to walk through at the same time, and eventually
found an open door. Employees were standing just outside the door,
taking a smoke break. In my very broken Russian I asked them if I
could get closer to Lenin and take a photo. Yay!!
The
history museum was really close to the war memorial area I'd seen a
couple days before, and that area was close to a bridge over the
river.
I walked across the bridge, to a marshrutka stop on the other
side of the river. It was easy to catch a ride to my next and last
stop for this trip: a monastery.
Noul
Neamt monastery was founded in 1861, and has somehow survived, even
though the area was under decidedly non religious Soviet control for
a long time. During those years, from around 1960 to 1991, the
monastery served as a hospital. The entire monastery is surrounded by brick walls. I
found the entry gate and walked into a nice garden area.
The inside of one wall was covered in a religious mosaic mural.
The property
isn't big, but manages to hold at least two churches, a bell tower
with lovely painting, and what I assume are accomodations for the
monks. I didn't see anyone else the entire time I walked around, but
I'm sure someone had to be there. One of the churches was open, the
other was not. The interior of the open church was totally covered in
frescoes, and light streamed in, so I was a happy camper.
I left
the monastery and went back to the main street to find a stop to
catch the next marshrutka back to Tiraspol. The ride wasn't long, but
it was longer than I would've wanted to walk, if I"d had the
time to do so.
My
timing ended up being on point, as I only had to wait a couple
minutes for the next marshrutka to come along.
I got back to Tiraspol
in time to have one more meal at the same restaurant I'd already
visited twice, then grab my backpack from the hostel, and walk to the
train station.
I
didn't have to wait long for the next ride to Chisinau, and from the
central bus station there it was easy (and cheap!) to get back to the
airport.
I
wonder if other cities in Transnistria are worth exploring?