portugal: coimbra and conimbriga

since portugal is relatively small, and my stops were never that far from each other, i took early morning buses during most of this trip...a bus from leiria to coimbra started the next leg of this trip...
it was raining a bit as i arrived, which i hated...i hate rain...i think it's the worst weather for a traveler, though i'm sure there are others who would disagree...despite having been a swimmer for years, i hate being wet...anywho...i was able to check into my hostel super early, and the owner gave me a good map of coimbra, as well as a lot of information on where to go and how to get there...the view from my hostel was nifty too...

coimbra is built on 2 hills, and there is a river running through the middle...when i first ventured out i crossed a bridge to go to the old santa clara convent/monastery...it sits on really low land, next to the river, so it flooded a lot, and over time was under water so it has since moved...before it was moved, the solution was to build more floors to the church, but that sort of thing never lasts long...howeva, i love ruins, so i wanted to see what i could...the part that was underwater was only revealed and open for visits in 2000...
queen elizabeth didn't found this monastery, but it was essentially dying before she supported it way back in the 14th century...she was buried here after she died...

every visitor starts their tour by watching a video in the information building/visitor center, which is followed by the chance to wander through a small archeological exhibition...(i watched the video, but sped through the exhibit)...i loved being able to wander through the ruins, though they aren't extensive...
i also visited the 'new' monastery, not much of which is open to the public...you can see the church, which is fancy, but not much else...there are signs stating that one part of the cloister is in such poor shape that there is a good chance of collapse soon, they ask for donations...

on my way back to 'my' hill, i walked across a different bridge, this one was entirely pedestrian...i got to watch kayak polo while i crossed...i've now seen camel polo, elephant polo, and kayak polo...i've never watched 'regular' polo...what other kinds of polo am i missing?
on top of 'my' hill stands the university of coimbra...since the town is old, it wasn't built with wide modern roads...going up the hill means winding along small streets and alleys...i kept going the wrong way, ending up on streets that didn't connect where i thought they should...ooops...the university is old, and well respected...it's also beautiful...

i've spent a lot of time in libraries over my lifetime...the geek in me really wanted to see the library in this university, and i'm glad i made the visit...STUNNING...there is an entry fee, and a part of me wondered at this...an entry fee to see a library??? well worth it...not only is there an entry fee, but there is a specific entry time printed on your ticket...visits aren't long, and they are well regulated...no photography is allowed...and you are not allowed to touch the books, it isn't a working library unless you get special permission to do specific research...the building was built of stone, with very thick walls, no extra climate control is needed to preserve the books and paintings...the painting on the ceilings were amazing, my neck was sore from staring straight up trying to take it all in...without pictures to show, it's hard to describe how amazing this library is, but i'm trying...

after walking though the library, you walk down stairs to what used to be a prison...based on how it is now displayed, life wasn't so bad for people who were incarcerated there...(i'm sure those folks would beg to differ)...
after exiting the library/prison, i visited another building in the university, i don't know what to call it...(i'm sure it has a name, and anyone who takes the time to visit the library is also going to see this building)...it's a big, main building, you can't miss it...many of the rooms in this building were richly decorated, including the one where PhDs are still awarded today...the views over the city from this building were fantastic...

walking down the other side of this hill led me to an old aquaduct that still stands...pretty...
on my way back to my hostel i stepped into almost every pasteleria i passed...by now i had figured out most pasterlerias have variations on the same general items, but that doesn't stop me from looking:)
i don't know how it came about in conversation, but i mentioned to my hostel owner that i love chai (as it is done in india,) and he said there was a cafe around the corner run by an indian family that does chai right...we went for chai, and he was right...it was sooooo good....why can't i make chai like that? what a fabulous way to end a really good day...

the next morning i was up in time to catch a bus to the ancient ruins of conimbriga...there is a town there, but i was heaps more interested in the old roman ruins...what i didn't know (or didn't remember from reading the guidebook) was that entry is free on sunday mornings...yahoooooo!!! not only did i have free entry, there were hardly any other people around for most of my visit...
the ruins of conimbriga aren't in great shape...without information signs, it wouldn't be possible for the average visitor to figure out what is there...some of the ruins are being rebuilt, which i don't love...i don't think it 'matches' but i understand the reasons for doing so...(educational value and all that)...i enjoyed the mosaic decorations on various floors...

the postcards available for conimbriga did not impress me...
i took the bus back to coimbra, and headed up the hill again to see a church...(i'm a jaded traveler who isn't easily impressed by churches, but i still love visiting them...something about the peaceful atmosphere i guess)...the church was pretty, as was the attached cemetary...though you cant go in the cemetary, the area just around the church provides a nice overlook...the views over the city were quiet and lovely...i loved the park i passed on the way there and back...
i visited more pastelerias, and went back to the same cafe for more chai:)