czech republic: prague

My bus from Berlin arrived in Prague at 0410, on time. It was one of the few times I kinda wished my bus would be late. Arriving anywhere at that hour isn't fun, even though I love Prague.
I knew the sun would be coming up soon, so I started walking and made my way to Charles Bridge. It's probably the most famous sight in the entire city, lots of people want a photo of themselves on an empty bridge. I admit I wanted that too. (I really need to learn how to use editing programs, so I can take photos then edit out anything I don't want in the photo.)
I arrived at the bridge at 0440, only to find plenty of other folks with the same idea. I knew I wasn't going to get the photo I wanted, so I went hunting for another angle. Not too much later I got really lucky with an amazing sunrise, I was able to get the bridge in profile. Absolutely gorgeous.

I walked to my hotel, where it was still waaaay too early to check in. (It was only 0600 or so.) I was able to relax in a lobby for a while, and get myself sorted. Like many hostels, there were plenty of plugs, and free wifi, so I took advantage and charged all of my gadgets. 
They let me shower and clean up, and I was able to leave my bag behind the desk while I went out for the day.
Since I've been to Prague a few times, and seen most of the sights, I was looking for something I hadn't seen before and was a little out of the way. In a previous visit I'd walked out to a palace only to find it closed. This time, I made sure it would be open.
Troja Chateau was built as a summer place to relax when this area of the world was part of another empire. The garden is very landscaped, and has a small labyrinth.
The entrance visitors use is actually the backside of the palace I think. Before finding that entrance I took photos of the proper entrance side of the chateau, which is quite grand.

The palace itself isn't all that great, there isn't much in any of the rooms. What is noteworthy are the ceilings. Almost every room has a lovely painting on the ceiling.  Always look up is one of my travel mottos, I had a crick in my neck from doing it so much in this palace.
There is one room that's really stunning in the palace, the Great Hall. The entire ceiling is painted, as are the walls, most of it honoring the leaders of the time. Not only is the ceiling painted, it was done as an optical illusion. As you walk through the room and look up, it feels like the eyes of the painted people are following you. Beautiful.
The docent tried to explain all of this to me, mostly in Russian. I think I understood most of what she said, though I was only able to respond with a few words here and there. 

After leaving the palace I walked back along the same general path, which took me through Letna Park. This park has one of the best views of the city, in my opinion. I sat and enjoyed the view for a while, then started walking again. At that point I was hot and starting to feel the lack of sleep.
I walked to the old town area, still feeling the calf cramp that developed during my first day in Berlin. Apparently you can't walk such things away. I really noticed it when going down stairs, and Prague is a city with plenty of ups and downs. I didn't like having to think about ever step I took, but that's what was happening. 

I walked the the old town area, watching some of the tourists. As I walked by the clock for which the city is famous I saw scaffolding all around. You could still see the faces of the clock, but the rest of the tower was covered. I'm glad I've seen it looking 'normal.'
I walked to a tram stop where I caught a tram that took me to Mom's old neighborhood. The mall there has a food court, and I wanted Indian food from there. I also wanted to go to the grocery store there, as I knew they had the yogurt I love dearly, which I'd planned to have to breakfast the next morning.
The food was good, then I walked back to my hostel. I had no trouble checking in, and got to have the loft level of my room all to myself. I fell asleep fast, and slept through the night.

The next morning I took my time getting up. Sleeping in a real bed is a luxury for me, I wanted to relax.
I had breakfast in the kitchen, after asking a couple to stop making out at the kitchen table. I do not need to see that, especially not while I'm eating. As they say 'get a room.'
Eventually I left the hostel for the day, and started by walking downhill. I stepped into a church I've seen before but still enjoy. It's covered in frescoes, the artwork is great.
From there I walked to another bit of art I'd seen before but still love: Kafka's spinning head. It's definitely a bit odd, but it's fun to watch.
I kept walking, going through Wenceslas Square. No matter how many times I go through there, it doesn't seem like a square to me. It's a looong rectangle, with some landscaping going down the middle. 

It's definitely not an open platz, which is what I expect when I hear the word square.
As I walked through the old city square I had to stop and get a chimney. I'm pretty sure I've mentioned it before, it's a trdelnik with a sealed bottom, filled (in my case) with fruit and whipped cream. Totally unhealthy, and worth every calorie.
I crossed the river and kept going, ending up at the memorial to the victims of fascism. As I came close I could see a group of Americans wanting to take a funny photo with the memorial, they wanted me to take the photo. I politely declined and told them the memorial was rather serious and I would prefer to respect it. It turned out they had no idea what it was, so I explained a little, and pointed them to the sign, which was just a couple meters away. They said their guide hadn't told them what it was, which sounds reasonable, but I was also thinking to myself that they should've looked for a sign/description nearby. Anywho.

From there I started following paths that took me to the top of a Petrin Hill. It was full on sunny and hot, I did not love my heavy breathing and sweating, but I did enjoy the views of the city.
When I got to the top I took a look at the TV tower, which can be ascended. I chose not to, just because I wasn't in the mood. I'm pretty sure that the idea of being crowded with other people did not appeal to me at all at that moment.
There was a church nearby, but it was not open, darnit. I ended up walking around the church, and finding a pretty garden on the other side.
I kept going, and found a huge rose garden, which was amazing. I have no idea how big it was, but I loved it. So many roses, they all smelled good. I took plenty of photos, even though the photos probably don't convey the atmosphere, or the smell.

I went down the hill by another path, and crossed back over the river. As I crossed the bridge I realized there were a lot of paddle boats in the river, everyone was having fun. I need to come back to Prague in the summer so I can rent a boat.
It was already evening by this point (I'd gotten a really late start,) so I walked back to the mall I'd visited the night before. I picked up a couple more yogurts, and had more Indian food. From there it was back to the hostel again.
I didn't have the loft area to myself anymore, but the other girls were quiet, so I didn't care.
The next morning I took my time again, just because I could. I cleaned up and packed up, and left my bag at the front desk.

I walked along streets I hadn't walked before, eventually crossing the river and making my way to the bottom of Castle Hill. I found a couple churches I hadn't visited before, and stepped inside both of them. Despite being close to the tourist meccas of the city, neither one was at all touristy. That is, there weren't any others in there while I was there.
I stayed on that side of the river and started walking toward the Smichov area of the city. If I remember correctly, Mom grew up somewhere in this area. (I've seen her old building, but don't remember exactly where it is located.)
I walked past the Staropramen brewery, I don't think I've seen that before. Across the street from the brewery they'd put together a big streetside advert that showed a glass of beer with the 'head' that would be typical in various countries. The American 'head' was a cowboy hat. I wish I'd taken photos of more of them, they were funny. Also stereotypical, which I didn't love. 

After a while I decided I wanted to cross the river. It took me a while to find a bridge, as they aren't so close together when you get out of the old city area. The bridge I used was also used by trains, and took me to the bottom of the Vysehrad area of the city.
I've seen the Vysehrad area before, and wouldn't mind seeing it again, but I was just plain exhausted at that point. Instead I wound my way through various streets, picking up dinner and snacks along the way.
I ate back at my hostel, then killed a few more hours until it was time to walk to the bus station. It's amazing how short a 30 minute walk can seem compared to 90 minutes.
My bus departed on time, and I know I'll be back to Prague.