russia: moscow: st basil's cathedral

Since our train from Yelets back to Moscow arrived just before 0800 on a Sunday, we decided to eat breakfast then go see something in Moscow before going home. All three of us knew that if we went home to take a nap, we probably wouldn't make it back out of our flats at all.

After breakfast we walked from Paveletsky train station into the middle of the city, just because we could. Never turn down a chance to enjoy nice weather in spring in Moscow. Our walk brought us to the back side of Red Square, so we took a team photo in front of St Basil's Cathedral without too too many people in our way.

Since our plan the weekend before hadn't worked out, we decided to try again to see (go in,) St Basil's Cathedral. The first time I saw it was in 2003, when I was on a tour with a German group. Back then I remember not understanding a word the guide said, and I couldn't read anything locally, so I basically had no idea what was going on. I have vague memories of thinking that the outside was fantastic, but the inside was really boring.

That being said, St Basil's is a recognized sight, all over the world. We figured if we live in Moscow, we really should see one of the world's most famous sights.

The official name is the Cathedral of Vasily the Blessed, but I'm pretty sure no one would recognize that name. Basil is the English version of the name Vasily, which explains the slight variation in names. It was built from 1555-1561, with Ivan the Terrible giving the orders for construction. Rumor has it that the architect was blinded so he could never again design something so beautiful, but that isn't true.

The building is said to resemble the shape of a bonfire rising into the sky, a shape that doesn't exist in the rest of Russian architecture. 

The Soviet state took over the building in the 20s, since they weren't fans of religion at all. It has been run as a museum ever since.

The entry fees change, depending on the time of year, and I think your nationality. Russians pay less than foreigners, something that drives me batty. Just because I'm not originally from here does not mean I have more money. Argh.

We paid our fee, our tickets were checked, and we were in. Almost as soon as you enter you see a small room with an iconostasis on one side, and glass walls on two sides. In this room there is often a service taking place, so we heard singing as well. 

You're not supposed to take photos or videos of this, we honoured that request.

The rest of the first floor is what you'd typically see in an Orthodox religious museum. Crosses, icons, etc... Each slightly different, most with explanations written in Russian and English. The rooms are small, it can get rather crowded trying to move around, and make sure you see all the rooms.

There is a set of stairs tucked into the corner of one of the rooms, this is the only way for visitors to get up to the second level. There is a sign stating that you can't come back down once you've gone up to the second level. The exit from the whole thing is from the second level.

I liked the second level a whole lot better. It was less crowded, but there was still plenty to see. There are a few more iconostases on display, and you can see the painting on all the walls. Very very nice. I also really liked the windows on the second level, you get to look out over Red Square, and toward the Kremlin as well. 

After taking heaps of photos, and learning a little, we decided we had seen everything. We exited onto a crowded Red Square, enjoying the amazing spring weather.

We took the metro to a restaurant Claire and I had visited once before and really enjoyed, an Indian restaurant. It's the kind of place where you don't know what you'll be eating ahead of time, you just eat what they put in front of you. SO GOOD.