16 September 2019

russia: petrograd and a quick repeat of shlisselburg


I've been to St Petersburg quite a few times, but it never gets old. I want to go back in mid September for a couple reasons, the biggest one that I wanted to retake some of the photos I'd lost when I lost my camera after my last trip to St Petersburg.
Because of that desire, the first day of this trip was almost exactly the same as the last first day of the trip. (Does that make any sense?) My train arrived on time, as expected, then I hung out in the train station for a couple hours.
Instead of taking my backpack to my accomodation, I made my way straight to the wooden church just outside city limits. 
Go figure, I arrived about 30 minutes before the gate to the property opened, argh. I spent the first few minutes walking around the outside of the wooden walls, then made my way into a forest area.
As it was a bit cooler in St Petersburg than in Moscow, some of the leaves had already begun to change colour. I'm a sucker for fall trees, I love that rainbow. Most of what I saw was still green, but there were hints at yellow, yay! As I walked along a couple paths I saw people kinda peeking out from tents, it seemed as if they were living in the woods. I don't know, but their campsites did not look like anything official.
The church was the same as before, I only needed about 10 minutes inside the property to take the photos I wanted. From there I took the bus back to the city, then the metro, then another bus to get back to Shlisselburg.
I visited the fort again, there were far fewer visitors in September than in June, but there were still plenty of people around. I wanted to go up the stairs to the area along the top of the old walls, but much of it was being renovated, so I skipped that this time.
The beach was just as beautiful last time, though the water was at a higher level, meaning the beach area was actually smaller than last time. 
A peaceful area though, I can see why most visitors spend a fair amount of time out there.
As soon as I got back to Shlisselburg I went straight to Lenin, who actually looked better in September than in June. (The leaves were changing colours, yay.) I also went back to the supermarket, hoping to find the chocolate brand I'd found during my last two visits. Unfortunately, they didn't have it anymore. I was gutted.
I didn't have to wait long for the next bus to St Petersburg, and the ride was the same it has been each time I've ridden this bus previously. 
Since this was the third time I'd come back into the city this way I knew exactly where I was when I got off the bus, and I knew exactly where I wanted to go.
This is where this trip was totally different from the last trip, I didn't repeat anything else. I rode a couple metro trains, then walked the rest of the way to my next sight in the city: the Rumyantsev mansion.
This mansion (now a house museum,) was originally built in the 1740s for Grand Duke Mikhail Golitsyn. Ownership changed in 1802, when Nikolay Rumyantsev became the owner.
The family owned the house for the next 100 years or so, and its appearance changed when a few architects were employed to make changes.
The Rumyantsev family opened a privately owned museum in 1831 to show off the collection of nearly 30,000 books, nearly half of which were in foreign languages. As far as I can tell, the last private owner was Grand Duke Lev Kochubey, who gave it to the Museum of the History and Developement of Leningrad in 1938.
I was thrilled to find out there was NOT a special entry fee for foreigners, woo hoo. The house is beautiful, and huge. 
There are three levels, with a whole bunch of really grand rooms. The ballroom was bright and gold. There were a few rooms with paintings on the walls, and a couple rooms with historical exhibits.
I'm pretty sure I didn't get through the entire house, so I wouldn't mind going back for another visit.
At that point my body was starting to remind me that I'd been on the go pretty much the whole day. I went to Namaste for dinner, then went to my capsule hostel to check in and crash.
The next day it took me a while to get going, but this time I have an excuse: the weather. I ended up having to walk in the rain each time I was outside, which was not my idea of fun.
As St Petersburg was the capital city for a long time, and had a royal family for quite a long time, there are now a zillion museums with history and art as their focus. I already had several of these museums on my list of places to go, and the weather made it easy to decide my itinerary for the day: museum museum museum.
When I got to my first museum of the day (the State Russian Museum,) I found the normal heap of options at the ticket desk. 
While queueing up I had plenty of time to read the signs, and was actually pretty happy to have all the different options. I ended up choosing a ticket that allowed me into several of the museums over three days. Of course I didn't have three days to see the museums, but if I went to three on one day, the ticket was worth it.
So that's what I did. I went through the State Russian Museum, St Michael's Palace, and the Marble Palace. I saw lots of grand stairwells, and really missed the girls. Stairwells were always good team photo spots for us, and they were always willing to take paparazzi photos of me on the stairs. Sigh, I miss them.
I saw more artwork than I can ever begin to try to remember. I saw gorgeous ceilings, many of which gave me a crick in my neck. I saw a LOT of gold leaf, apparently that colour was really important to the various royal family members. I loved the intricate wooden floors in so many of the rooms.
I managed to irritate two particular docents; one because I barely touched the pedestal of a sculpture, and the other because I wanted to take a photo of old school door handles. I understand why the docent didn't want me touching (not even a little) the sculpture pedestal, but I did not understand why taking a photo of the door handles was a bad thing. 
As that docent wasn't able to give me a reason why, I'm guessing she just wanted to pick on me. Argh.
There were plenty of brightly shining chandeliers as well, particularly in the rooms where the royals would've had public gatherings. Most rooms had different colours on the walls, sometimes it was paint and sometimes it was wallpaper.
After walking out of the third museum it was only late afternoon, but I was completely done. I was cold, and totally arted out. Thank goodness the waiters at Namaste know me, it is easy for me to stay there a few hours each time I have dinner.
From there it was a a quick walk back to my hostel to pick up my bag, then another walk to the train station. I love that I've been to this city enough times that I know how long it takes to walk to the train station from various points in the city.
I will be back :)

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