25 October 2019

bosnia: blagaj, pocitelj, and kravica waterfall


Several years ago I went to Israel and Palestine for my New Year's holidays. While there, I met a Polish blogger, we've followed each other on social media ever since. When Bo and I were trying to figure out where we should go in Bosnia we ended up reading several blog posts written by Kami, and ended up choosing to visit several of the locations she had written about. So many options!
This post is about the day we did a road trip around Mostar, using the car to drive to three different places.
As expected, the hardest part of the day was simply in figuring out how to get out of Mostar. Bo doesn't like listening to the voice on google maps, he wanted to read the map himself. This was all well and good until I had to make fast turns or lane changes. I much prefer having plenty of notice, so I know what I'm looking for, and don't risk life and limb to get to where we want to go.
Our first stop was a small place called Blagaj. Wikipedia tells me the name Blagaj probably came from the Bosnian word blaga, which means mild. Apparently Blagaj has very mild weather; it was fantastic weather while we were there. 
Not surprisingly, the original name wasn't Blagaj, the first written name was Bona, (which is Latin for good, fine,) going all the way back to the Byzantine Empire.
The town has never been big, as the location simply hasn't attracted a trade route which is what often caused town growth back in the day. There is a fort up on the ridge overlooking the area, the fort has been there since the very beginning. You can hike up to the fort, but we chose not to do so, though I'm not sure why. Maybe I'll go back?
The main thing we wanted to see is sometimes called the Dervish House. It's the prayer house at the mouth of a spring that comes out of the bottom of the mountain. If I understand correcly, the house goes all the way back to the mid 17th century, without any major renovation.
There was an entrance fee, of course. Sigh. As the house is still an active Muslim prayer area, women are required to wear a head covering, and they wanted me to wear a wraparound skirt as well. There were separate prayer rooms for men and women, the women's room was a bit smaller, but not too much.
There was a room where you can wash your hands and feet, in order to pray properly. This room had a small skylight of sorts, pretty impressive.
The best part of the house was its setting. You can hear the constant flow of water, and nothing but the occasional sounds of people talking. It's a really quiet, peaceful place. Unfortunately, it has become a place tourist buses come, because the walkway close to the entrance is lined with tourist stalls, and the other side of the water is lined with cafes. Argh.
After our quick walk around we walked back up the walkway, turning down a random road just because we could. There was an abandoned building, with a gate that wasn't completely locked. I wanted to go in, and convinced Bo we could open the gate and walk right in.
As we walked through, we didn't know what we were seeing, but I did appreciate how old it was, and we did make sure to avoid the holes in the floor that opened to the water flowing underneath the building. We took a peek out the other side of the buiding, it was just open land.
As we were about to leave a couple came into the building, looking at us in surprise. 
I was nervous we were going to get into trouble for going into an abandoned building, but it didn't happen.
I tried speaking a little Russian, it didn't work. Bo figured out the lady spoke some German, which was a relief. It turned out the building we were in was an abandoned mill, over 300 years old. This couple owned the mill and the land it was on, because her husband's family had owned it back when this area was part of the Ottoman Empire. They were essentially using the mill as a gate to their property, until deciding to do something else with it. 
The lady indicated that we should follow her, so we did. She showed us to a house she and her husband were renovating in the style of the Ottoman Empire. It was GORGEOUS. The main 'living room' had a natural system of air conditioning, as there was a door in the floor that could be opened to let the breeze in, which came from the water flowing under the house.
The house had plenty of intricate wood carving, and coffee sets, and lounging areas. I would've happily spent the rest of our day there, if I'd had a book. It was just one of those places that was incredibly comfortable. When this couple opens the house for business I'd love to stay there for a couple days to relax.
After that unintended tour, we went back to the car and drove to our next spot, a town called Pocitelj. Getting there was tough, as Bo wanted to use the GPS on his tablet, which seemed to keep directing us onto nonexistent roads. I finally turned on my phone, which got us where we wanted to go.
Pocitelj has written history going back to the 15th century, but probably predates that time. It's a walled city, it must've been quite the feat to build the walls around the city. As the city was built during Ottoman rule, the houses are still mostly in that style. Since Bo and I had visited the judge's house in Mostar, we didn't feel the need to visit any homes in Pocitelj.
Pocitelj is built on the steep side of a hill, visiting it means you're getting a step workout whether you want one or not. We parked in a big platz at the bottom, I assume this is where tour buses park. It was free, so I didn't care.
Our walk through the town involved a few breaks so I could catch my breath. Neverending steps and heat did not make me feel good, hee hee. The views from all over were amazing. We found a crumbling tower at one corner of the walls, and were even able to climb up to the top. Looking out over the whole area was incredible.
We visited one of the mosques in Pocitelj, thankfully it wasn't prayer time. 
The builders had found a way to put small pieces of coloured glass in the walls, so the interior was really colourful and really light, I loved it. The women's section was a balcony on a level overlooking the main floor, not nearly equal to the men's section in size.
Pocitelj isn't big, so it didn't take all that long for us to wander all over. We didn't find main roads going through, so I'm not sure we saw everything. Instead we were climbing up various stairs between buildings, then on narrow streets for a short while, then more stairs. Half the fun was figuring out how to get back down the hill to our car!
I should mention that Bo was basically over being in photos by the time we left Pocitelj. I love taking 'team' photos when I travel, you have to be okay with those for us to travel well together. I don't blame Bo, since I'd probably asked for at least 6 by that point in the day, hee hee.
It was easy to get to our last sight for the day, the roads weren't too confusing, and the signage was really obvious. Kravica waterfall isn't just one waterfall, it's a series of them.
We probably should've visited the waterfalls first, since the sun was backlighting everything by the time we arrived, argh. It's a beautiful area, really easy to reach from the parkplatz where both a parking fee and entry fee are assessed.
The walk to the waterfalls from the parkplatz is only five minutes, down a specially constructed pavement. If you can walk with a railing, then you need no other physical skills to visit this waterfall. There were lots of groups taking photos, I didn't blame them but I did get impatient after waiting through a couple amateur photo shoots.
There is a rope blocking off the pool at the bottom of the falls, but you can get into that area by hiring a small boat for a quick tour that gets you up close to the falls. The water wasn't warm since we were there near the end of October, but I bet its a great place to have a swim in the middle of summer. There also looked to be a camping area nearby, which would also be awesome in summer, depending on how many people are there with you.
After a while we decided we'd had enough, and drove back to Mostar. There are so many small but amazing places to visit in Bosnia!


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