russia: khabarovsk and birobidzhan

When I booked tickets for various parts of this trip, I knew I could push it and fly back to Moscow the morning after arriving in Khabarovsk. That would've meant nearly 24 hours on a train, followed by one night of sleep, then straight to the airport. I realized I didn't want to go go go like that, and I knew I didn't have to. So I added an extra day into my time in Khabarovsk.

Getting from Vanino to Khabarovsk was actually the same train the whole way, but I booked two different tickets. I booked a 3^rd class bed during the night, then switched to a seat for the day part of the ride.

The seat wasn't particularly comfortable, but it was cheaper and in the end I knew I'd be exhausted no matter what I did.

Getting from the train station to the hostel I'd booked wasn't quite straightforward, because I wanted to stop at a particular bakery along the way. I chose to take the bus to the bakery, then walk from there. I had good memories of this bakery from the visit to Khabarovsk with Claire and Angela a little over a year previously. Unfortunately, I'd forgotten about Covid restrictions when I came up with my plan to visit the bakery.

I got there and saw they didn't have very many items available, including the ones I'd really been looking forward to, and I couldn't go inside except to order takeaway.

After checking into the hostel I rested up for a while, then went for a walk. In looking at the map I'd realized there was a Lenin statue I hadn't yet seen, so I walked in that direction. Along the way I got to see a couple awesome, giant mosaics on the sides of a government building. I took photos, though the lighting was starting to go. (It was nearly sunset, and that often makes for bluish photos, which I do not like.)

The Lenin statue was nothing spectacular, but they rarely are, even though I'm still fascinated. A full statue, on a pedestal. The lighting was already a bit on the blue side, but I took my photos anywho. I took the bus back to a spot close to my hostel, but instead of going inside, I turned around and kept walking. 

There was a park marked on the map, and when I had clicked on that listing, there were lots of photos of a fountain, which apparently lit up at night. Imagine my delight when I got there, and that is exactly what I got to see.

To make it even better, the lights were colourful, and the colours changed in time to whateva music was playing. 

I loved watching the water move in rhythm to the music, and I wasn't the only one. I could've spent another hour standing around and listening, but I knew I needed to get some sleep. 

The next morning I got up pretty early, and walked quickly to the train station. It was easy enough to buy a ticket for the next elektrichka to Birobidjan.

Birobidjan is one of Russia's unique cities, after a fashion. The semi-autonomous region of Russia is the only officially Jewish region of the world after Israel. At one point there were a fair number of Jews in the city, but the current number is a lot smaller.

The city is located on the Trans-Siberian Railway, approximately 190 kilometers from Khabarovsk. There are currently has around 75,000 residents. By Russian standards, Birobidzhan is a young city, having been founded in 1931. I don't really understand how the official founding date was 1931, but official town status wasn't granted until 1937, because it was a planned city.

Adding another date to the mess, the Soviet Politburo approved the land grant in 1928.

At the time of the creation of Birobidzhan, the Soviet Union came up with the marketing phrase 'to the Jewish Homeland' in an effort to encourage Jews to move there. The marketing was successful enough to have Jewish families from Poland, Romania, Lithuania, Germany, etc... move to Birobidzhan.

That being said, Birobidzhan was never a roaring success.

Before the decision was made to create another Jewish homeland, Russians were already living in the city, along with Cossacks, Koreans, and Ukrainians. Population did increase in the years after World War 2, as the country continued to be anti-Semitic, but at the same time the Stalinist government got rid of Jewish organizations.

At this time the Jewish population of Birobidzhan hit its peak, at 30,000 residents. Wikipedia tells me there are now only 2000 or so Jews in the region.

Wikipedia goes on to tell me that the current industries/economy of the region are focused on textiles and footwear, and other light industries.

Though the current Jewish population of Birobidzhan is much smaller than it once was, there are still two official languages of the region: Yiddish and Russian. The name on the train station is written in both languages; the same on the signs of the post office and the central market. There are 14 public schools in the city, and they're all required to teach Yiddish along with Jewish traditions and culture.

Though the train station had the name of the city in Yiddish and Russian, it was otherwise just like any train station in Russia. There was a menorah in the middle of the fountain out front, though the water wasn't running when I visited. Since it was the middle of the summer I have no idea why.

Directly across the street was an 'I love Birobidzhan' sign. Though I'd just barely set foot in the city, and didn't know how I felt about it, I took the photo anywho.

My first official sight in the city was also very typical of the rest of Russia: a large WW2 memorial.

There were several pedestals honouring those who won specific awards during the war, an eternal flame, several wreaths, etc... At the other end of the memorial area was a small chapel.

Next I found another friendship monument, it seems Russia is quite fond of these. I think this one honoured the relationship between Russia and China. Really close to this monument was an Orthodox church, painted white on the outside. The inside was quite colourful, I'm a sucker for colourful interiors as a visitor.

I made my way to the de rigeur Lenin monument, which was really close to the regional government building. On top of the building were Russian and regional flags, I was surprised to see that the regional flag has a rainbow. Not at all what I expected to see in Russia.

The regional government building is right next to the boardwalk that has been built along the banks of the Bira River. I enjoyed walking along the water, I was surprised there were hardly any other people out walking around.

I kept walking and made my way to the main theater, which had fun decorations in front. Just off to the side of the theater was a statue of a fiddler, I presume it acknowledges the famous musical of Fiddler on the Roof.

At that point I was hungry, so I found a supermarket where I could pick up snacks. Not far from the supermarket was the Central Market, the one with the Yiddish and Russian signage. The market itself was just like any other market I've seen in Russia.

Not too far away I found a statue of Shalom Aleichim. From there I walked to an old synagogue further toward the edge of town. I'm not sure whether it was still in use, but while I was there the doors were locked. It was painted blue and white, with the Star of David in a few places.

On my way back toward the city center I stopped in another supermarket to to pick up dinner to eat on the train back to Khabarovsk. After stocking up I kept going, to the Jewish cultural center. The center consists of a newer, bigger synagogue, an office, a cafe, etc...

There were menorahs in the fence sections that surround the entire complex.

From there I walked back to the train station and caught the next elektrichka back to Khabarovsk. I arrived back well after dark, so I just walked back to my hostel and went to bed.

The next morning I packed up and checked out, then took a taxi to the airport. I wouldn't mind coming back to Khabarovsk, to explore more of the city and the area in general.