south africa: port elizabeth

Port Elizabeth wasn't a place I expected to enjoy very much. I intended to stay there just a night or maaaaybe two, then continue my trip. I ended up staying three nights and had a great time. 

When my bus arrived, I used google maps to tell me how to get to my accommodation. This was another place I used AirBnB, and again it worked out really well. As I got close, I called my host who quickly drove home from work to let me in. (It turned out the bus had gone right by his work, so he knew I would be ringing him soon.) 

He let me in, showed me where everything was located, and we chatted a bit. Then he went back to work and I started watching tv. Maybe not the most travel related thing I could've been doing at that moment, but it was nice. 

Eventually Justin came back. It turned out he has a very stable job, and since all the necessary work was being done, he was able to leave. We chatted about all manner of things, especially politics. 

About an hour later, his wife Daleen came home. I got to chat with her as well. 

An hour after that, Daleen drove me to a beach south of the city.  It wasn't an area I'd planned to visit, since the guidebook didn't mention it much other than to say it was a city beach. 

I'm soooo glad Daleen took me to the beach. I walked along the boardwalk for a whole, also going down to the sand from time to time.   It was super windy, and the wind caught my dress from time to time. When that happened, I felt as though I could be lifted off the ground. Strong wind, and a lot of it.

I saw dunes (with grass) in one area, and a sad looking lifeguard shack in another. I stepped into a surf shop to buy postcards. 

 I ended up being there during sunset, which was one of the best I've ever seen. A.MA.ZING. I don't know what made it so spectacular in my eyes, but I loved it. 

There were clouds, which always make sunsets better. The sky changed through a rainbow of colours, and the water was various shades of blue/green.  A.MA.ZING. 

I called Daleen, she sent Justin to come pick me up. On the way home, we stopped at a supermarket to pick up dinner food. As usual, I wandered through every aisle, because I like doing such things. Justin told me about various cuts of meat, something every South African seems to know. It made it easier for me to pick a steak to buy. 

When we got home Justin started to fire up the braai. I got to have my first ever South African braai, yippee!! It's basically a BBQ, in a different style from the way Americans cook. This braai was actually inside the house! 

Wood is fired, and burned down enough so that it is basically a set of coals. Meat is then set on a grill above the 'coals' and everything comes out tasting divine. 

In general, South African cuisine involves a lot of meat, which works for me. Dinner included steak, cheese grilled (cheese stuffed hot dogs) and pork chops. And a salad, and rice. I live a good life.

We watched a movie on Tv after dinner, though I don't remember what it was. Obviously, nothing memorable. 

The next day was Saturday, which would normally be a day for everyone to get active and be out of the house. Unfortunately, it was the first real rain day of my trip. As a result, I did almost nothing. I sat around a lot, read for a while, watched some tv, and chatted with my hosts. 

I also went with Daleen to a charity shop to find decorations for one of her friends. Daleen is an amateur interior decorator, I like her taste. We also went to the supermarket, where I picked up a mint chocolate ice cream bar. Yummy, but not necessary. 

At one point I looked out the windows leading to the balcony off the living room, and saw a giant rainbow. Awesome. I should mention that Daleen and Justin's house offered a great view of the port of P.E., it was one of the reasons I chose their place to stay. 

Daleen cooked dinner that night. I don't remember what it was, but I do remember it was good. All my meals in this house were great. 

The next morning Daleen cooked breakfast for all three of us. A little while later we all piled into the car, and picked up Daleen's sister. (I think. Maybe it was another relative?)

We started by having drinks at a cafe with a view of the port. Not pretty in the classical sense, but I enjoyed it. 

Then we went for a drive along the so called 'wild coast' which is also south of the city. 

It's gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous. 

Several times we stopped so I could get out and take photos, which I loved. I got to see a popular camping area, and since the views of the water were wonderful, I could understand why the area is popular. Justin said it's the kind of place that books out a year in advance during high season.

We stopped at a place that has a Portuguese canon from a ship sunk long ago. It constantly amazes me that Europe is so far away, but has such a huge part of the history and modern life here. 

We also stopped at a lighthouse. We weren't supposed to get close, but Justin talked his way past the guard, using me as an excuse. He told the guard I just wanted to be there for five minutes, to take a couple photos. That's exactly what happened. 

As we came back into town, they asked me where I wanted to go. I mentioned a place listed in the guidebook, and that's where I was dropped off. 

St. George's park is basically in the middle of P.E. (as Port Elizabeth is called by most people in South Africa.) 

I started my solo tour by walking around a monument in the park. The monument was European related, as is most visible history stuff to see in this country. Europeans were/are all about documenting and memorializing their history both visually and in the written word.

Next up was a small greenhouse. There were a few pretty flowers, but nothing I hadn't seen previously. I was more fascinated by the lines between the panes of glass that made for interesting (to me) photos. 

The centerpiece of the part is a cricket stadium. Unfortunately, it wasn't open, so I was only able to wander around the exterior.

I exited the park from a different place than where I entered. This exit had another monument, in the middle of a parking/drive thru area. I walked up the street, following the map I'd created with a travel app. 

My next 'stop' was a statue of a guy and his horse. This one was different from the normal guy on a horse in that the guy was feeding his horse, not riding his horse. 

It's not big, and is at the end of a small strip of a green area. Lounging around the grass were a bunch of people, none of whom looked to be doing anything in particular. 

From there I walked in the general direction of a place called Donkin Reserve. This reserve was more of a city park, rather than a hiking or trekking area. There was a large grassy area, I could see families and couples walking around. I saw a statue of a woman, I saw some modern art pieces, and I saw some tiled mosaics. 

In one corner of the park was a small pyramid. It is a mausoleum/memorial of the woman after whom the city is named, Elizabeth. Her husband (last name Donkin) created the reserve. Obviously, I took photos. 

Next to the pyramid memorial was the information center, in the shape of a lighthouse. Even though that's not a building shoe I'd expect to see in a city park, it somehow fit. Unfortunately, it was closed when I arrived. Argh. 

Eventually I left the reserve on the opposite side from where I'd entered. This 'back side' had paths winding/switchbacking down to the next street, and the paths were lined with decorated cement. Pretty. 

I walked along the street until I got to the end, and started to turn left. Even though I was staying on the sidewalk I looked both ways during this turn, and when I looked up the street I noticed more modern art. Cars (well a half of a car) had been attached to the 'walls' of the street!

Hard to explain without seeing it, so I will let the photo do the talking. 

My next quick look was a library. It wasn't open, but the front was quite glorious. (The sides and back of the building were boring.) I wish I'd been able to go in, but I was too late in my arrival. (Sunset on a Sunday in winter.)

While looking at some of the buildings in that area I realized this was the area in which I'd arrived by bus. In other words, I knew exactly where to go for the rest of my walk home. 

Another fantastic dinner by Daleen that night, I knew I was really going to miss them when I left. The next morning Justin drove me to the bus station in plenty of time to catch a bus leaving at 0600. In other words, it was still dark. 

I loved P.E. and hope I can go back some day.