south africa: johannesburg

I landed in the airport in Johannesburg and immediately discovered that I'd lost my South African SIM card, much to my frustration. Since it was just after midnight, there were no shops open from where I could buy a new card. Not having a working SIM card meant I had no access to any internet, or any apps. I'd booked a place through AirBnb, but without a SIM card I couldn't get the phone number I needed, though I did have the address. 

I ended up asking a taxi driver at the airport (I couldn't access uber either, which I really would've preferred, as it would've been heaps cheaper,) to take me to the address I had. Of course lucky me chose a guy who didn't have a smart phone, so he couldn't plus anything into GPS. He got lost a couple times, ugh. 

We finally got the right address, only to find a security gate that wouldn't let me through, and was very hesitant to call the home. I understood their hesitation, but I begged, and I think he understood that otherwise I had nowhere else to go. Fortunately the phone was answered, and I was let in. 

My room in the home was really cozy, and I wish I'd arrived earlier. The couple was older and retired, and very friendly. Since it was around 2 in the morning, it didn't take me long to fall asleep. The next morning they cooked me a full English breakfast, then I packed up. They took me to a mall so I could get another SIM card, much to my relief. After this, they took me to my next accommodation, in another area of the city. I loved this couple, and I'm thankful they let me stay at their place after arriving in the middle of the night. 

My next accommodation checked me in, I had a cottage on the property. This guy was a journalist. In the cottage was a binder filled with information on available activities, tours, sights, and restaurants. Really really helpful. 

After relaxing for a while I walked to the apartheid museum. It was a long walk, and took me through a couple sketchy areas of the city. At one point I had to double back and figure out another way to go because a gate was closed. 

The museum was well designed, and is a very intense experience. When you buy a ticket, it includes a slip of paper saying which entrance you should use. They want you to experience a very small part of what apartheid used to be like, when there were multiple entrances for early everything. 

I went through the whites only entrance, which was definitely a lot easier (wider and less crowded,) than the blacks and coloureds entrance. 

As I said earlier, walking through this museum is intense. It isn't a pleasant experience, but it is necessary, in order to learn and remember the evil that was a legal part of this country for so long. 

There are exhibits on the history of the laws that made apartheid legal, bit by bit. There are exhibits on the people affected, which was everyone. There are a few videos, more than one of which I couldn't watch all the way through. Some of the violence perpetrated in the name of the law was disgusting. How do people do such awful things to each other? How do people believe others are worth less?

I'd planned to walk home, but when I walked out of the museum it was raining, so I arranged an under taxi. 

The next morning I went to a nearby place called De La Creme Patisserie. YUM. A scone, omelet, and tea were more than adequate. 

From there I walked to a grocery store, buying loose leaf tea and other drinks. From there I walked to a mall, where I found two more large supermarkets. I bought more tea, yogurt, and snacks. 

During that part of the walk I passed a park with a pond. There were rowboats on the lake, very cute to watch couples and families. 

The mall was huge; in addition to the two supermarkets there were multiple levels, shops, and buildings. I got turned around several times, ooops. 

I walked home to drop off my stuff, then got another uber taxi. This driver took me to a massage parlor, where I'd arranged a hot stone massage for 90 minutes. It felt amazing. I slept like a baby that night. 

The next morning Elvis picked me up at 0930. Our first stop was the wealthy area of Johannesburg. Those houses are big, and the security walls are thick. Other than a lot of money I wonder how much of a community tie there is in this area. After becoming president, Nelson Mandela lived in this area, it's called Houghton Estate. We stopped near his house, which still used. There are memorial rocks (small stones, decorated by private citizens who wanted to leave a momento,) in several areas in front of the house. 

Our next stop was Constitution Hill, Constitution Court in particular. Though I'd wandered through a couple months earlier, this time I learned a lot more from Elvis. I love the tradition and thought that went into building this court, and I love that it's open to the public. 

After the court we drove through Hillbrow, the most dangerous area of the city. Should I have known that when I first arrived in South Africa? I don't know. Since we were in the van, I asked Elvis to stop so I could take a photo. 

We drove the the apartheid museum. Even though I'd visited before, I appreciated the chance to go through again, taking a look at areas I hadn't seen. To see everything and take it all in, you really need at least half a day, if not longer. Despite my two visits I still haven't seen all the exhibits. 

Our next stop was Soweto. The name is actually an acronym for SOuthWEstTOwnships, and the area is HUGE. It's a lot bigger than I expected, and much bigger than international media ever portrayed. There are still a lot of people living in the area, much to the chagrin of the current government. The government wants people to move into newly built homes, and start paying rent. I can understand why people don't want to do that. 

When these townships were first created it was in order to have a place for miners and household employees to live. At the time, the government said this housing was adequate, but it didn't have running water or electricity, which only arrived after the fall of apartheid. People lived in shacks. That didn't stop vibrant communities from forming, complete with businesses and shops. 

Not all the homes in Soweto are shacks, though some still are. I could see some informal settlements off in the distance. Some homes are very middle class, with security walls and gates. 

There are a couple electric towers in Soweto, the photos are iconic. Unfortunately, those towers never provided power to the areas surrounding it. They're no longer functional, at least not as power towers. 

Our next stop was another area in Soweto, a street known as Vilikazi st. Two Nobel Peace Prize winners came from this street, the only time in history this has happened. The street has been paved and turned into a commercial/tourist area. We had lunch at a buffet place on the street. Elvis said it was typical food of the country.

This specific neighborhood of Soweto is known as West Orlando, and is where Nelson Mandela lived with his family for a while. I went through the house, it's hard to miss. It's small, only four rooms; two of the rooms are bedrooms. There are markers on the floor, showing where the boundaries were, and there are signs on each wall describing each room. None of the original furniture is still in the house. What is original are the bullet holes still in the front of the house. I can't even begin to imagine the terror felt by the family as they lived there. 

Down the street from Mandela's house is the school at which started the 1976 school uprising. The school is still open and functioning. This uprising started because of the passing of the Bantu Education Act in 1953, enforcing the education policies of apartheid.

On the day in 1976, schoolchildren had decided to go on strike, and the protest was to start on a street corner near the school. A student by the name of Hector Pieterson was shot by the police, the photo of another student carrying Pieterson body is one of those iconic photos known by people around the world. 

The memorial dedicated to Pieterson is located a couple blocks away, because that is where there was enough space to do it properly. There is a museum here too, but we didn't go in. 

Elvis drove me home, after a full day of learning and watching. I'm really glad I did this tour. 

After getting home, I walked to a nearby Indian restaurant to get curry. YUM. 

Read another post about my day trip to the Sterkfontein Caves, Cradle of Humankind, and the Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve. 

After returning from Pretoria the day after that, I stopped at Rosebank Mall again. I had seen a Krispy Kreme shop in there, and decided to buy some just because I could. From there I took another uber taxi home. I went back to the Indian restaurant and got another curry to take with me on the plane. 

I packed everything, taking it all with me back to Park Station, where I caught a Gautrain to the airport. I still had yogurt with me, which I couldn't take with me through security. The guys who working there laughed as I stood there and ate a LOT of yogurt. For the first time ever, I tried to get a VAT refund, the process was annoying. 

They process it, take a commission, then print a check. When you go to cash the check you have to pay taxes (on your refunded taxes!!) and a fee to get your money. Argh. I spent what I did get back on postcards, which always make me happy. 

I will definitely be back to South Africa, it's an amazing country. 

south africa: johannesburg

My first morning in Johannesburg I woke up early, just like I do most mornings. It still hadn't really sunk in that I was in South Africa. Yay! 

I finally got moving and out the door at 10am. 

Before coming to South Africa the one thing I'd heard from nearly everyone was to be careful. I still wanted to walk though, so I did. This first day I started by walking into the city center to see a few sights. 

On the way to my first sight I realized I was hungry, so I stopped at a fish and chips shop. But they were out of fish! So that didn't happen, at least not at that particular shop. (The name of the shop included fish and chips, how on earth did they run out of fish?!?) Thankfully, the next shop did have fish. It also had an item labeled 'fat, with extras.' I have no idea what that was supposed to mean, though it looked like a sandwich of sorts with a fried egg. 

I'd plotted out a walking map using a travel app, but the first sight wasn't open. I started to realize that churches in this country have security, just like other homes and buildings. In other countries churches are often open all the time, or at least during the day. I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing this church (and others) are only open during services. Anywho. 

During my walk I passed a bus station of sorts. (Looking back, I think it was more of an informal taxi rank. Taxi in the sense of public transport, like a minibus; like a marshrutka in Ukraine. In front of this area was an informal market area. People selling anything from individual candies to fruit to socks, etc...

I walked through a mall called Carlton Place, I'm not sure why it is listed as a sight? It's just a mall. I liked the glass/transparent ceiling, as there was heaps of natural light.

My next sight was Gandhi Square. Before this trip I only associated Gandhi with India, but I've since learned a lot more about the man. His theory of non violent resistance began in South Africa. Gandhi Square isn't really a square, much to my disappointment. There is a statue of Gandhi on one side, but the rest of the area is filled with bus stops. On one side of the square is a Spar supermarket, I enjoyed wandering through. (I love grocery stores, something I'm sure I've mentioned previously.) 

On my way to another official site I passed a building with a beautiful mural on the side. There were several zebras painted on the wall, I loved it.

My next sight was the city hall building. I was surprised at how quiet the area in front of the building was, it's a nice building. As I was taking photos, someone came up to me and told me that wasn't allowed. He didn't say why, and when I looked around there were no signs telling me not to take photos.

This guy didn't make me delete the photos I already had, so I kept them, and moved on. I really wish I knew why this guy told me not to take photos. Oh well. I wouldn't mind not taking photos of things I shouldn't photograph if only there was a sign telling me not to do so.

Walking down the street after seeing the outside of City Hall, I was crossing a street but had to take a step back when a vehicle came through the intersection. I had a green light for crossing, the truck most definitely was going against a red light. Just after I made it to the other side of the street I heard a crash. It was the truck I'd narrowly avoided crashing into a car. Very scary stuff. I saw a front bumper on the street, totally off the car. As far as I could tell, no one had been injured, but neither vehicle was in good shape. 

In front of a municipal court I saw a giant statue of Mandela as a boxer. There was a quote underneath saying something like this: when you're in the ring nothing else matters. Not money, not skin colour, not class.

Clarendon House is across the street from this courthouse, but it wasn't open when I was there. Clarendon House is where Mandela and his law partner had the first black owned and run law office, at least during the days of apartheid. When this place is open you get to see some of the artifacts of the office, and learn the history of Mandela's law career, and how it fit into the timeline of his civil rights activism. 

Then I walked to Nelson Mandela bridge. It's not a big bridge, but it isn't typical either. The bridge takes you over a train yard, and shows a nice skyline of the city on one side of the bridge. On the other side of the bridge I could see a pavilion of sorts, I wish I knew what it was. There was only one side for pedestrians to cross the bridge, as one side was blocked off, I don't know why. 

I made it to Constitution Hill only to find that the ticket office and tour areas were closed, because it was Wednesday. I was frustrated because the signs listing the opening hours didn't mention being closed on Wednesday. Everything I looked at online also neglected to mention being closed on Wednesday. Argh. 

I was still able to go inside the Constitutional Court, the highest court in South Africa. Not as fancy as I'd expected, but it was still neat to see. Eleven justices sit on the court at a time. 

Even though the fortress on the Hill wasn't open, I was still able to walk up the stairs and walk around the ramparts. Nice views over some of the city, even though I could tell this is not a wealthy part of Joburg. 

By the time I finished walking around the ramparts, the sun was beginning to go down. It was time to go 'home.' I followed the same street back as I'd walked earlier in the day. Louis Botha Avenue. It wasn't a short walk, but I made it home pretty quickly. 

I was glad the owner of my hotel owns the restaurant next door, it made it easy to figure out where to eat dinner. 

The next morning I got moving a lot later, for no good reason. 

This time I made sure to get to Constitution Hill first. It was easy to buy a ticket, and I was able to join a tour group straightaway. My tour guide spoke relatively quietly, it wasn't always easy to hear her. Come to think of it though, not yelling probably kept the tour group quiet. There wasn't the extra noise of people talking and ignoring the guide. 

The first part of the tour took us through part of the former prison on Constitution Hill. The guide told us about life in the prison, and it wasn't easy. In fact, it was awful. We learned that life in the prison depended a lot on your skin colour. There were three levels of treatment: white, coloured/Asian, and native/African. The worst treatment was for African prisoners. They had the most crowded cells, the worst supplies, the worst health car, the worst and least amount of food. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have survived the brutal life those prisoners suffered through.

After the prison our guide took us through Constitutional Court. She explained the different aspects of the design, what each thing means. I thought it was really cool to learn that anyone can come watch when cases are being argued. 

After the official tour was over, I wandered around the rest of the complex. By doing this I got to see the room where Mandela was imprisoned for a while. He was treated slightly better and kept separately from the others, because the administration was aware of how important Mandela was. Because of who he was, he was one of the most documented prisoners, ever. Anywhere. 

Also in this area were the isolation cells for white prisoners. While not fun, they were heaps better than those for any non-white prisoner. 

I wandered around the former womens' gaol, which is now filled with several exhibits. One of the exhibits is of some of the women who spent time here, another is an art exhibit. 

After I left Constitution Hill I went back to the fish and chips shop that had been missing fish yesterday. It turned out not to be nearly as good as I'd hoped. I picked the breaking off the fish, and just as I was finishing eating, a beggar came and asked for the breading. Of course I gave it to him. 

Next I tired to find a specific church, but it was located correctly on the map I was using. Argh. 

My next stop was a building called the top of Africa. I think it's the tallest in Johannesburg, and there is an observation level near the top. They really need to wash the windows, but it was neat to see the skyline of the city. It didn't seem to be a popular place, but maybe that's because it was all that easy to find the elevator bank I needed to get to the top. 

I stopped into a small cafe to grab snacks, and was harassed by a guy who wanted to chat with me. I said no, he got offended. I prefer to keep to myself much of the time, and forcing a conversation on me is never a way to get me to talk. 

I ended up walking home soon after that, and had dinner again at the next door restaurant. Yay for convenience! 

The next morning I packed up, said my goodbyes, and walked to park station, one of the gautrain stations.