14 May 2013

Ukraine: Crimea: Sevastopol and yalta

The next weekend was also a long weekend because of another holiday...yippee!!!
I made sure to book train tickets well in advance, as I knew Crimea would be an area people want to visit, I didn't want to be stuck in kyiv with nowhere to go...
My train to Sevastopol took ages, almost 18 hours!! it wasn't expensive though...my arrival was late, but I didn't have any specific plans, so that didn't matter...I took a cab to my hotel, the driver charged me way too much...argh...he also gave me his card, and told me to call if i wanted a ride to go anywhere in sevastopol...um, NO...
After showering and getting rid of the feeling of travel, I started walking...I'd asked the hotel lady for directions, and though it took me a while to find a bus stop for the right bus, I eventually figured it out...
My first stop was a set mod Genoese ruins called chersonese/kersonese...the ruins aren't well protected, people walk everywhere...the ruins weren't super impressive, but I loved the view of the water...blue water going all the way to the horizon...I had fun taking photos and watching people...is it really necessary to take glamour shots next to ancient ruins? there are small rock beaches, and a few people in the water...my favourite part of the ruins was the huge number of red flowers all over...they are beautiful, but if they are not taken care of, they will destroy the ruins...
I took the same bus back into the city centre, then kept walking...as it was a holiday weekend, there were people out everywhere...I watched part of a concert by retired Russian sailors...it was the first time i've experienced such russian patriotism...there were plenty of cars driving through the city, honking and waving russian flags...
i noticed that the ice cream i often buy in kyiv costs twice as much here!!
wandering up this street gave me views of some of the russian ships in the port, and a couple memorials...i don't know what/who was being memorialized...
i had dinner at a bistro...(this is not a french word, though many people think so...it's a russian word that means fast, which is why bistros all over the world serve food quickly)...the food would've been awesome if it hadn't had so much mayonnaise slathered all over...
instead of grabbing a bus to get back to my hotel, i walked...it was long, but nice:)
the only problem with going to bed early is that you tend to wake up early as well...really early...which is not a great thing when you are on holiday, and want to have a lay in!! the price of my hotel included breakfast at a cafe next to the hotel...this was unexpected, but nice, of course...
i took a marshrutka to the town of balaklava...you have probably heard the name referring to the 'mask' some people wear while skiing, (or in cold climates during winter) and this town is where they were invented...little old ladies made them for soldiers fighting in wars in cold climates...i wasn't sure where to get off the marshrutka, so i got off when a heap of others got off...(i figured out later i could've stayed on a bit longer, but oh well)...
i walked for a while, not entirely sure i was going in the right direction, and eventually saw the entrance i was looking for...visitors go to balaklava mostly to see the former (secret, i think?) russian submarine base that is built into a hill...
it wasn't warm inside the tunnels of this base...quite chilly, actually...the sailors who stayed there must've worn warm clothes all the time, even in the middle of summer...the tunnels and various rooms had displays, with some of the signage in english...one docent kind of guy spoke a little english, and was eager to show me around...
on the other side of the bay (balaklava is built around a bay) are some ruins...the only way for me to get to the ruins was to walk all the way around the bay...there is no bridge across the water...
the other side of the bay was much more touristy...there were souvenir stalls the whole way along the water...i admit to giving in and buying a mug...(i'm always thrilled when i find something without english)...
i climbed up the hill to the ruins...they weren't anything special, but i did enjoy the views of the water on the other side...there was also a nice view over the entire bay...it turned out the climb up the hill was easier than the way back down...i slid quite a bit on the way down, falling on my bum a couple times...ooops...
i caught the marshrutka back to a station of sorts, and changed to another that took me to a place called cape fiolent...it's pretty, and the views of the water are nice...there are 700+ steps down to a small beach, which i opted not to do...not because the exercise would be too much, but because the beach was so very small, and i didnt think i would be able to see more from the bottom...there is a lovely monastery at the top of the hill...i wouldn't mind living there, just for the view alone:)
at the marshrutka station i bought a donut (well, sortof) and hopped on a marshrutka headed to the center of sevastopol...i walked back to my hotel and realized i was quite sunburned...ooops...
the next morning i didn't get out the door of my hotel nearly as fast as i should have...i ended up having to wait until 11 for a bus to yalta...i think the ride was around two hours, which meant i didn't arrive until 1300 or so...then it took me quite a while to find my hostel...the google map i'd printed had the wrong address marked, it was very wrong...i ended up walking quite a ways...it turned out not to be a normal hostel...i think it was a teaching hostel, if that makes any sense? hard to explain, but it definitely wasn't the normal hostel i expected...there was only one plug in a room with 14 beds! there was no communal room, no computers, etc...i was able to schedule dinner, which was nice...the bed was okay, i slept well...being so far from the city centre meant it was very quiet...
it took me a while to find the correct marshrutka to take me to the cable car at ay petri...last year, when i visited crimea, taking a ride on this cable car was something i missed, and really wanted to do during this trip...i was surprised at the price (60 grivna each way i think?) and i wasn't thrilled with the experience...maybe because i didnt give myself much time...if i had had more time i would've been able to hike/walk around the area up top, and explore more...the area just outside where you get off the cable car is filled with souvenir stalls...some with knickknacks, some with food...i walked through the area, then took the cable car back down...the skies were clear, but the views weren't as awesome as i had expected...
i caught the next marshrutka to a place called alupka...i don't know if it is a town or village or something along those lines?
i walked through a park to vorontsov palace...since i like to see historical places, i really wanted to see this palace...this was another place i'd missed during my first crimea visit...churchill and his delegation stayed here during the yalta conference of WWII...i liked this palace in that i was able to wander around on my own, i wasn't stuck taking a tour in a language i didn't understand...each room had a sign with information (in english and russian!) about the room...one of the rooms were more interesting than others, one was an indoor garden...i guess that was quite the rage when the palace was built...
there was haze, so i wasn't able to see the water; the palace is built in gardens that overlook the water...if i had had more time, i would've followed a trail that goes for several kilometers along the water...(my next visit to crimea will be planned better, with more attention paid to timing)...
when i got back to my hostel, the lady got my dinner ready, it was tasty:)
after dinner i walked into town to use the free wifi of mcdonalds...there was another chick in my room, already asleep...
the next morning i woke up before my alarm went off...the other chick was still asleep! i walked to the bus station, and bought an orange dreamsicle for breakfast...healthy, i know:)...it was at this bus station that i finally found postcards for sevastopol...why was i unable to find these in sevastopol itself?
on my bus to simferopol the lady sitting next to me seemed put out that i wanted to put my own bag under my feet, and she had to move her bag...did she think i would keep my bag on my lap while her bag was under my feet? this bus took me straight to the simferopol train station, which was a relief...not all the buses from yalta to simferopol do so, i wasn't keen to figure out how to get from the city centre to the train station...
in my coupe car back to kyiv there were three others, i think they'd been camping for days...based on how they smelled, i don't think they had showered for days...yuck...at least the train back to kyiv went on time...

07 May 2013

Running Geneva

While looking at a calendar of holidays and running races, I realized I had a long weekend at the same time as Geneva would host a marathon...I also realized cloe lives only 20km west of Geneva, just over the French border...it was the perfect chance to see a great friend and run a race...after the ridiculously unorganized race I'd run the weekend before in kyiv, I was super excited about 'Swiss efficiency'...
I flew into Geneva, transiting through Brussels...(that airport does not have free wifi, how annoying)...after landing, I took the free (!!!) train into the city centre, then walked to my hostel...it's been a while since I've stayed in a dorm room of a hostel...
One of my students last year in kyiv has been living in Geneva this year with his mom while she attends school...while getting ready for this trip I made plans to get together with them, just for a catch up...I was able to find their flat, it was nice to hang out and chat for a couple hours...
The next morning took full advantage of the giant breakfast included in the price of my hostel...nothing is cheap in Switzerland, so 'free' breakfast is a great thing...food was served in a large room, filled with people...the hostel houses a lot of people, many more than I thought...there were several floors of dorm rooms...
I replaced my stuff, then found my way to the hotel I'd booked for my next night...finding and getting to that hotel took longer than expected, but I had time...then I went back to the main train station and met Bo as his train arrived...(he'd just spent a few days in garmischers after finishing his job)...
We dropped off his stuff, then used the free public transport for a day passes provided by our hotel to go back into the city centre...Geneva is a financial centre, a classic town, but it isn't particularly picturesque...there are no scenes that make you think wow, Geneva...but it was still nice to walk around...
we picked up dinner from a supermarket, and ate while sitting on a bench near a tree...after more walking we found the chocolate section of a big supermarket...apparently a lot of people buy heaps of chocolate to bring home with them...we saw numerous people with bags and bags of chocolate...I like Swiss chocolate, buuuuuuut...
The next morning Bo and I visited another supermarket to get breakfast...bakeries in Switzerland are soooooo much better than what I've seen in Ukraine...properly baked items...good bread...lovely cream...lots of variety...heaven...
We took the bus into the city centre, and found the English gardens, where the marathon village had been set up...I love this part of a marathon...at an expo you get to see different races, products, gear, etc...and of course the important part of picking up my race shirt and number...the race in kyiv didn't have anything other than race numbers and tshirts, and even that was amazingly unorganized, so I loved Geneva even more...I realized I'd forgotten my running hat, so I bought a hat to wear during the race...(useful both for keeping the sun and sweat out of my face...since I'd signed up for this race a month in advance, my name was printed on my bib number!! :)
We picked up our stuff from the hotel, then went to the train station to meet cloe...we ended up waiting longer than expected, as cloe was coming with her boyfriend, and he was having issues at work...anywho, they rolled up, cloe and I were super excited to see each other again...it had been almost a year since she left kyiv...
Victor drove to Cloe's flat, we got the grand tour, then we had some snacks and chatted...mostly in English, but a few phrases in French, Russian, and Portuguese...good times:)
We walked to the town bakery the next morning for breakfast, cloe lives in a very small town...not surprisingly, my eyes are much bigger than my tummy...oops...anywho, so good...eventually we hopped back in the car, and went to the supermarket...cloe hadn't been in her flat in over a week, so she had very little food...plus, Bo said he would cook dinner that night so he needed ingredients...it was awesome to be in a supermarket with so many choices, and so many products I haven't seen in a while...
Later that afternoon cloe took Bo and I to see the school where she has been teaching this year...fun:)...across the street from the school is a park with a nice walking trail...Bo and I went for a walk, as the weather was lovely...
Dinner by Bo, yum!!
The next morning everyone was up early, we left the flat around 0700...I wanted to arrive 30 minutes before race time and google maps said it would take 30 minutes...we added in extra time in case of detours or getting lost, hee hee...we arrived just when I wanted to arrive:)...I had run half marathons previously, so I knew what was happening...Bo used to race bicycles, but hasn't run distance races...victor and cloe had never seen this sort of event up close...I love the energy during prerace time...some people talk with friends, others stretch...some people do warmups, I just make sure my number is pinned on securely...(ive always hated warmups, even when i was a swimmer...why would you want to use all that energy before the event that counts????)
the race was organized to start in waves, i started out in E section...race time came, the crowd slowly moved forward...I started the GPS/distance gizmo on my iPod nano...eventually I crossed the start line, people spread out a little, the race started and I settled into a good pace...(I hadn't trained at all, so I knew not to go as fast as would have felt okay at the begging of the race)...the course was lovely...half countryside, half city...I got to see fields of bright yellow flowers and a few small villages...everything was well marked, and there were people out cheering everywhere...I loved hearing my name, from people who didn't know me at all!!
Not surprisingly, the last few kilometers were tough...my legs weren't happy, but I still finished with a good kick...the finish was at one end of a bridge, so there is a nice straightaway that is great for trying to sprint the finish...it's also great for people gathered on each side of the street...lots of cheering...awesome...
I saw cloe, Bo, and victor at the beginning if the race, another time in the middle, and again at the finish line...awesome!! They held my bag during the race, and watched all the runners while drinking wine and eating cheese ( cloe is French, after all)...I grabbed treats at the finish line, as well as a couple bottles of water, then walked back to the marathon village with cloe, Bo, and victor...we walked slowly, but I made sure to keep moving the entire time, so my legs didn't tighten up...
After walking around a while, we got back in the car and drive back to Cloe's flat...Bo and I both fell asleep in the back seat, cloe was nice enough to document that with photos of us looking awful:)
After relaxing for a while back in the flat, Bo cooked dinner again...yum, of course...
The next morning cloe had to go back to teaching, Bo came with me to the hospital...I loved the efficiency of checkin and security, I was sad to leave...