ukraine: kyiv: mom came to town

Yay, my mom came to visit!

I picked her up at the airport, and even though my voice still sounded awful and it wasn't easy to talk, we chatted all the way back to the city center. Since I live in a very small flat on the edge of the city, mom got a hotel in the city instead of staying at my place. 

After resting up for a while we walked down the street to TGI Fridays. The sign written in Cyrillic still makes me laugh after four years. I had steak, and it was everything I wanted it to be :)

The next morning I had to teach, though it was a struggle. The kids were good, and I just danced during our normal music time instead of singing and dancing.

I met mom after class, she came with me to the doctors office for my last treatment on my vocal chords. It went quickly and smoothly; mom took a photo of my name (written in Ukrainian,) on the screen outside the room while I was in there. 

We went to dinner at Revolution Grill, my favorite place in Kyiv. All I need to say about that is YUM. 

The next morning, we walked along Khreshchatyk, which is pedestrian on weekends. Definitely the place to see and be seen. It was even more crowded because it was the start of a long holiday weekend. This was the first holiday weekend I've even stayed in kyiv in four years! 

We had a late breakfast/early lunch at a place I've always called Violettas cafe. That's not the real name, but my friend Violetta introduced me to the place, and I can never remember the real name of the place. It's a budget, cafeteria style place. Why spend a lot of money on food when you don't have to?

After Khreshchatyk we walked through Maidan, up the hill to St Sophia's platz. I showed mom the statue of Boghdan Khmelnytsky, an independence fighter in Ukraine several hundred years ago. 

We didn't go in St Sophia's, I don't really know why. We walked about two blocks down the street, to St Michaels. We did go in that church, it was beautiful as always. 

As we were walking out of the complex we decided to go in the bell tower. I'd always known it is a museum, but I hadn't known previously that you can go up the bell tower as part of the museum. It turned out to be awesome!

Very cool to look down on st michaels, and be able to look up the street toward st Sophia's.  In the museum we got to see a bit of the history of the church, including pictures of what it looked like when Lenin's buddies blew it up in the 1930s.

From there we walked to andreiivsky uzviz, a street full of stalls selling kitschy tourist stuff. We walked a little of the street, (it's a little steep, and made of cobblestones.) We also took a look inside St Andrew's. It's a museum now, not an active church, but still hosts an occasional baptism or wedding. I paid the fee to take photos, which I've never done before, though I have taken quite a few photos of this church over the years. The fee is less than $.50, not exactly breaking the bank.

We finished in this area, and I led mom over to Mosaic Park. My favorite park in the city, even though it's always full of  people.

Next up was a stop at Coffee House, which is normally my favorite coffee chain in kyiv. This visit was a disappointment, as they didn't have 3 of the 5 things mom and I tried to order. Argh. 

From there we decided to walk back to the hotel and have dinner at a restaurant closeby. Another not so great experience, unfortunately. Moms salad came out really fast; although it was quite good, she was finished eating long before my sushi came out. I'm normally fine with meals coming out at different times, but more than 30 minutes in between is ridiculous.

Sunday mom finally came out to see my flat. I wasn't surprised when she started cleaning, she's always done that for me. I didn't let us stay long enough for her to clean the entire flat. We had lunch, cooked by yours truly, then went back to the hotel in the city center. After relaxing for a little while we found a cafe on Khreshchatyk, neither one of us felt the need for a big dinner.

Afterward, I took mom to a nearby French bakery for evening snacks, because it's yummy :) We walked through the area, to a small park with a statue of a guy mom recognized, I guess he was a character used in cartoons all over the former east bloc? Or a soldier character known all over the former East Bloc? Something like that. 

The next morning we took the metro to Arsenalna station. It is only one stop from Khreshchatyk, but it's a long stop. 

Mom and I walked down the street to the memorials, for WW2 and victims of the Holodomor. Both of them evoke an emotional response in me no matter how many times I see them.

Continuing down the street we came to the Lavra. When people come to kyiv, I show them St Sophia and the Lavra, as they are both UNESCO sights. 

The difference in this visit was that I discovered you can climb up the bell tower here as well. It's an extra fee, another 30 griven for each person, on top of the 50 griven entrance fee to the whole complex. My legs were jello by the time we got to the viewing platforms but it was sooo worth it. Awesome views. And we had beautiful skies, which made it even better.
We visited the two main churches in the complex, I know I've described both of them in previous posts. I was finally able to get good pictures of the inside of the church I like the best. Apparently it's a great idea to visit in the middle of a weekday:)

I took mom down into the 'caves' area, she enjoyed it even though the area is a bit claustrophobic. You can only walk in one direction, and there isn't a lot of air flow. 

Next we continued down the street to Rodina Mat, the statue and WW2 memorial area.
I've only visited Rodina Mat once before, the first year I lived here; that time I arrived through a different entrance to the area. During this visit it was a lot more crowded, for two reasons: it was a beautiful sunny afternoon and it was the middle of a Monday afternoon, at the end of a long holiday weekend. 

Rodina Mat is a 62m tall statue. I think you can take an elevator inside her to a viewpoint on her head, but I've never done it. 4 years ago the price was 200 griven, I have no idea what the price is now. Due to the political situation this year, the government and president of Ukraine had decided to use the posey to represent 8 May, the date recognized as the end of the war in Western Europe, there was a crown of posies on the head of Rodina Mat. Previously, Ukraine has celebrated the holiday on 9 May, as that was the day Stalin spread the news in the former USSR. I think Ukraine is now celebrating both holidays?

Nowadays Russia uses St George's cross as a symbol for the day. All over Kyiv you could see both symbols, different ways of marking the same moment. Poroshenko (the president of Ukraine, made a speech on 9 May, on a stage in front of Rodina Mat, I'm glad mom and I didn't get there until the 11th. 

I had to go back to school on the 12th, but I only had to teach in the morning. Mom and I had lunch at Puzata Hata again, then walked Khreshchatyk again. When mom travels there are certain souvenirs she looks for, and a football (soccer) jersey is one of those items. It took us a while, but eventually she found what she wanted.

I had thought there was an Adidas store nearby, I turned out to be very wrong. The store probably moved during all the madness of Maidan last year. 

We also traipsed through Bessarabsky Market. It's listed as a place to see in all the guidebooks, and it is pretty, but I don't see a reason to buy anything there. All the prices are much higher than they should be, they're all geared toward foreign tourists with money. 

Since it was mom's last night in town, we went back to revolution grill for dinner. Another yummy experience. I might have ordered too much in the drinks department: a caramel milkshake, citrus lemonade, pear lemonade, and something called birch sap. It was all worth it :)

The next morning I put mom in a taxi to the airport, and I went back to my normal schedule at work. 

finland: helsinki and suomenlinna

Finland is a country that has fascinated me for a while.  It's both Scandinavian, and not.  It has a very mixed history, having been part of different countries, as well as being an independent country.
Thursday night I hurried home from work, packed my bag, and took a taxi to the airport. Two flights later (via Riga, which is a very fast airport for me to get through) I arrived in Helsinki at 0030.
Before flying I'd opted not to book a hotel the night I landed, for a couple reasons. First, I wasn't sure there would be public transport for me to get into the city at that hour. Second, Helsinki is a very expensive city, and I didn't much feel like paying for a full hotel night when I wouldn't get to enjoy the whole night. Hotel prices are at least €60/night!!
Sleeping in the airport wasn't bad at all, I found four seats together and was able to stretch out. Plus the wifi was good, (and free!) and I found a plug nearby. Why aren't all airports this awesome??

The next morning I found the public bus that makes rounds between the city center and the airport; it's only 5€! The ride wasn't long, maybe only 30 minutes. The bus takes you to the central train station, which is very central in the city.
The place is booked for my first full night was only a 10 minute walk from the train station. My room was ready, I was able to check in straightaway, yippee!
During checkin I realized my voice was completely gone. I could whisper, but actual talking wasn't working, uh oh. If it didn't make communication so hard, I would have been laughing.

I rested up a bit, then started exploring. The first place I went was an old wooden church in a park a couple blocks from my hotel. Unfortunately the church was closed, I wish I'd been able to see the interior. Wooden churches aren't terribly common.  The next place I wanted to visit was closed too, a market hall that was supposed to be filled with old stuff. Argh. Then I tried to find a sculpture, but I missed that too! Argh.
What I did see was plenty of people out and about. 1 May is a national holiday, so EVERYONE was out and about. Apparently the traditional way to celebrate is to have a picnic with family and friends, I saw heaps of people in the parks all day.

I saw people wearing sailor like hats, I'm assuming those had something to do with the holiday. I also saw people wearing outfits that made me think of the uniform worn by people in car shops, or race car drivers; only these had patches everywhere, and were many colors. Some people wore red, others green or yellow, I even saw orange. Again, I'm assuming there is a tradition I don't know about.
During these first few attempts at sightseeing I stepped into a convenience store. I'd heard Finland is expensive, but some of these prices were a shock to say the least. On the happy side of things, I found some of the Icelandic yoghurt I loved so much when I lived in Iceland for a summer so many years ago. YUM!
I walked up another street to a park called the Esplanade. Heaps of people here, HEAPS. All the statues had been given those sailor like caps, I thought it was cute.

There were vendors walking around with giant bunches of mylar balloons, I saw several kids ask for them.
I walked the length of this park and turned onto a street where I thought I'd find a restaurant for lunch. I found the restaurant, but it was closed. Ugh. (At this point I was thinking 'dumb holiday'.)
At the end of the park I crossed the street over to an area on the quay, I think it's called the western port. There is a market of sorts there most days, you can buy fresh fish. Due to the holiday, there were more stands than usual, many of them selling food to be eaten straightaway. I was thrilled to sit down to salmon, veggies, and small potatoes. At only 10€, it was a huge bargain (by Helsinki standards!)

From my seat at lunch I could see Uspenski cathedral. It's an Orthodox church on top of a hill close to the port area. I walked up the hill, along with every other tourist in the city, only to find that the cathedral was closed for the holiday.
I'm happy to see businesses and offices and everything else closed on holidays, it's nice to know there are countries out there that take holidays seriously, that make it possible to celebrate (or honor, in some cases) the holiday instead of having to work. At the same time, as a visitor, it's annoying to find so many things closed while I'm traveling.

I walked from the cathedral to senate square, not too far away. Along the way I saw a shop that advertised Finnish traditional items, so I stepped in. I looked at many items made of wood, wool items, etc.... And expensive postcards. 1€ each!
Due to the holiday there were a lot of people in senate square. There was a jump house set up, and some stalls with food as well. It's a nice, large area, surrounded on most sides by government buildings. In the middle of the square is a statue of Alexander II. The statue was put there when Finland belonged to Russia. It's been a source of controversy over the years, but is still there.

Helsinki Cathedral is the place to which your eyes automatically look when you enter the square. It's a Lutheran church, way up on top of steps. It's grand looking on the outside, mostly white. I entered the cathedral to find a concert of some kind. A group of kids wearing identical shirts was singing in the front. Due to the concert, I didn't go very far in the church, but from what I could see, the interior wasn't nearly as impressive as the exterior. The outside is grand, but simple. The inside is big, or rather, the ceiling is high, but it isn't terribly grand, if that makes any sense.

I went back down the stairs, noticing that the jump house had been taken down, and the stalls were being cleaned up. I don't remember what time it was, but I remember thinking it was early to be finishing the holiday celebrations. (Especially since the sun doesn't go down until after 2100.)
I found an Indian place for dinner, and ordered one of my favorite dishes, bhindi masala, (okra curry,) but it was a bit drier than I like. On the other hand, the lassi was awesome!
After dinner I walked a bit more, to work off all the food. It felt good, and since it was still light, I felt okay staying out later than I normally do.

The next morning I woke up to the news of a major, devastating earthquake in Nepal, and also found out one of my rugby friends was there and survived and was safe.
I didn't sleep well, since it was light so early, my bed faced the wrong way, and the curtains didn't block the light at all. Plus, I had even less of a voice, argh.
This day had the worst weather of the whole trip. Overcast in the morning, then the rain started before noon and kept going most of the day. YUCK. Rain is the one type of weather I hate while traveling. Thank goodness I had my waterproof (but really ugly) boots with me.

My first stop of the day was a random tea shop. Not that I needed any tea, but I couldn't help myself.
My next stop was a rock church. It is well known, but when I saw it I couldn't figure out why. It's just a church partly carved out of rock. The inside is rather plain. The church is only open a few times a day, about an hour each time. I didn't know this ahead of time, I got lucky in arriving about 5 minutes before one of the open times.
Side note: i found the cheapest postcards in the city at souvenir shops near the rock church.
From the rock church I walked to Sibelius park, to see a monument. Very nice, totally different from anything I've seen before.
From the park I walked back toward the city center, making my way to a cemetery. Hientaniemi cemetery is the Finnish equivalent of Arlington national cemetery in the states. I was the only person there at the time, it truly felt like hallowed ground.

I got back to my hotel, warmed up and charged my phone, then moved me and my stuff to a new hotel. (Slightly cheaper, and had a room available for the rest of my visit.) No one answered the bell for five minutes, which was really frustrating, since I was sick, and tired.
After settling in I went back to the Indian place for dinner, ordering a different dish this time, and repeating the lassi. Again I walked out feeling fat and happy :)
The next morning I woke up to a beautiful sunny day. I managed to get myself up and out the door before 9am! No one was around the Cathedral, so I took a few new photos with a blue sky and no one else in the photo. Much better than the flat grey background of the past couple days.

I got to the ferry terminal 15 minutes before the next ferry was due to depart. Yay for convenience! Surprisingly, a ticket good for 12 hrs on the ferry was only 5€. That might be the only time in the whole trip when I didn't feel like I was emptying my bank account.
The ferry took me to the island of suomenlinna, the ride was only 15 minutes. The island has a fortress (or what remains of it) from back when Sweden and Russia were involved in Finland.
I wandered all over the island. Unfortunately the mitary museum (the museum I most wanted to see,) wasn't open yet for the summer, booo.
I also discovered the church (built by the Russians as a military church) is only open for special occasions. More booo. How do I get a list of when EVERYTHING is open?

A most excellent discovery was the ability to walk through the tunnels in the walls of the old fortress. Some are pitch black! Voices echo, very cool. While it was excellent to walk through in the dark, my camera is not good enough for that situation. Oh well, not every experience needs to be documented.
I got to see some of the big guns still there, from Russian days. Seeing how different parts of the island came from different parts of history made me a very happy geek. I loved how there were signs explaining all of this in various parts of the island.

I ate lunch (which is brought with me, knowing food prices at the two cafes on island would be super high) sitting on a small cliff, my view overlooked a small beach. LOVELY.
The island is hilly, the paths and such go up and down. I walked across a small bridge to an area marked on the map as a naval academy. After wandering around that area I saw a small sign saying it was an active military area, and not open to tourists. I'm not sure if that meant the academy grounds, but it was too late to do anything but walk back to the ferry terminal.
After taking the ferry back to the city, I walked up the hill the Uspenski cathedral. This time it was open, yay! I got an external photo with a blue sky, and an internal photo with sunlight streaming in. Yay!

My next stop was the Finnish national museum. There are permanent exhibits on all aspects of Finnish history (geological, cultural, etc...) and it was hosting a temporary exhibit on religions around the world. My favourite exhibit was that of currency and medals from all through the history of the country. It included Swedish and Russians currencies from the appropriate times. Awesome. The front door of the museum still has a bullet hole from the 1918 civil war. Hmmm.
The next morning I used my new favorite travel app (triposo) to create a path around the city to see what I wanted during my last half day in the city. I started at a supermarket to buy chocolate. Great big bars of chocolate. Yum. Why haven't I seen Finnish chocolate anywhere else? I bought postcards near the rock church.

The first church I wanted to see was closed, boo. I saw the 'sight' of an intersection with five streets. Why was that listed as something to see?
I was happy that St. John's church was open. I really liked it, especially the organ, and it had great stained glass windows. Stained glass windows in a church always make it feel more friendly and welcoming; I feel more like I want to worship in a church when it has stained glass windows.
My last church of the day was closed as well. Oh well.
I got another lunch of salmon by the water, YUM!
From there I practically ran back to the hotel, grabbed my backpack, and hoofed it to the train station to catch a bus to the airport.
Another side note: the next day I went to the doctor in kyiv and was officially diagnosed with laryngitis. Four days later I could finally talk again! Sortof.


 

ukraine: kyiv with a visitor

I love playing tour guide, I wish I could do it more often. (Maybe I ought to look into this as future employment? Anyone reading this know anyone in tourism or that sort of field?) Unfortunately, Ukraine isn't on most peoples' list of places to go, and is in fact a destination a number of my military friends are not allowed to visit for the time being. My friend amanda came to visit for a few days, yahoo. We met in Seoul, through rugby, she now lives in Istanbul.
Amanda was supposed to arrive at 0815 Saturday morning, but when she got to the airport in Istanbul she was told her flight was full so she was  put on another flight a couple hours later. Does it make me sound awful if I say I was glad for the delay? I was able to sleep an extra hour and clean my flat a little more.

I met amanda at the airport, we used public transport to get back to my flat. (shuttle bus then metro then bus). It's an easy trip, but not terribly fast, argh.
After relaxing for a few hours we went back into the city using the metro and bus. After exiting Arsenalna station, we walked along the street going toward Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra. It's one of two UNESCO sights in the city. Along the way, we stopped at a place that shows a nice view of the left bank of the city. It's lovely.
This viewpoint is right next to the Holodomor memorial, which always gets me. It's hard to believe someone (or a government) would do that deliberately. Too many people starved, and it didn't need to be as bad as it was.

The Soviet Union never accepted responsibility for it, they always said it was poor farming, and a year of bad weather. Russia says the same thing now. Most of the rest of the world says it was done on purpose, while Stalin was trying to get everyone into collective farms. Nearly all the grain that was grown was exported, or put into locked silos to which the people did not have access. As people starved, the borders were closed, people were not able to escape. Millions died, though the official number of dead is debated. What always gets me at this memorial is the statue of the little girl who is sad and starving. (She looks particularly pathetic during winter, when she is covered in snow, as someone almost always puts a flower in her arms then as well.)

Further down the road we came to one of the entrances to the Lavra. It's the holiest complex in Ukraine, and one of the top 5 in the orthodox world. The entrance used by most people has frescoes on the walls. They're beautiful, but fading. We arrived pretty close to closing time, so we didn't have to pay the entry fee, yippee!!
I think this was the first time I've visited when trees were blooming. So pretty. I took one photo with a cherry blossom tree (it could be anything else, I don't know tree names; the blooms were pink) which I love.
As we approached the main church, I saw an open door. I know from past experience that this door leads to stairs which go to an upper level, and this door is not always open. We went up the stairs only to find that the second level was being renovated. Sheets hanging everywhere, both plastic and cloth. Boooo.

We could hear the music of the service, but could only see glimpses of the intense beauty of this church.
Back down the stairs and through a different door into a small chapel. This chapel has a side door/entrance into the main church. It's only open during worship services, I was happy amanda was able to look in. This church is brightly colored, with gold and new paint everywhere.
I also showed amanda a view over the lower part of this complex. Amanda was more fascinated by what she could see of the statue Rodina Mat, as part of the WW2 memorial. The statue is 62m tall, it's hard to miss.
We followed a path back out to the big street, and walked back to the metro station.

That was all the sightseeing we did that day, but it was still nice. We took the metro back to Khreshchatyk, and ate dinner at a steak place (a branch of an American chain, I always laugh at seeing the name written in the Cyrillic alphabet.) it was good but not wonderful; the dessert was big. Yum.
As we got back to my flat, we went through the supermarket nearby. Amanda loves walking through those as much as I do!
Since Amanda hadn't slept well the night before, then traveled and been out during the day, she was exhausted. It didn't take long for either of us to fall asleep.

The next day we got up slowly, she with coffee and me with chai. I love weekend mornings when I stay in Kyiv, I love starting my day this way.
I had a farewell party to go to, so Amanda and I figured out where to meet in the afternoon. We met up, then walked up a street starting from Maidan. This particular street hasn't really been open to traffic since the protests of last year, I don't know when it will be, if ever. It has been a memorial street, with flowers, pictures, candles, etc. I want every visitor to the city to walk this street, to get a little bit of feeling of what happened here last year.
We made it to the National Art Museum of Ukraine, this was my first visit despite living here almost four years! It's not big, which is perfect for me, as I'm not hugely into art.

This museum is two floors, with four-ish rooms with displays in each floor. The first floor hosts temporary exhibits, if I understand correctly. One of the current temporary exhibits is about heroes. The exhibit recognizes that there is no specific definition of a hero. It can be a regular worker, a soldier, a miracle maker, etc... As part of this exhibit we saw a bunch of paintings of Lenin, which really surprised me. Ukrainians haven't ever been fans of his, and with the recent passage of a law forbidding communist and nazi propaganda, it's expected that pictures and statues of the guy will be removed in most or all places around the country.

There was also a large painting depicting a dinner of some sort, I think Stalin is leading a toast. In the painting are also heaps of others who at various points held political power in the Russian empire. It's neat.
In three different places on the second floor there were young painters making copies of displayed paintings.
Then it was time for tea at a cafe.
We walked from Maidan up a street in the direction of St Sophia. At the top of the street we turned right, and walked to the entrance of St Michael. I've been told this isn't the original church, it was actually only built in 1994; it's a copy of the St Michaels that was destroyed by the soviets back in the day. (In 1938 think.)  even so, I find it beautiful.

As we entered the church, we realized there was a service happening. I've stepped into quite a few orthodox services in the past years of living here, but this service wasn't the normal. There were a number of priests standing on the middle, all of them in fancy dress. (Not just their normal black robes, they had extra gold/red garments on top, and the lead priest was wearing what to me looked like a crown of sorts. I need to ask someone what was happening.)
From St Michaels we walked to Andreiivsky uzviz, (another language calls it Andreiivsky spusk) or Andreiivsky descent. It starts next to St Andrews, and goes down a hill. Amanda and I entered the church, which is different from the other churches we'd seen during the day. From the railings around the church you can see over quite a bit of the city.

St Andrews is close to my favourite park in the city, called Mosaic park. We strolled through, watching people.
At one point we sat down to use an app on Amanda's iPad to figure out where to go for dinner.
We chose a vegetarian place, which was good but expensive considering the portion sizes. The smoothies were healthy and good.
Again, it was easy to fall asleep.
Monday I had to work all day, there is nothing to say.
Tuesday we met up early afternoon, after I finished my morning class. The weather was amazing, almost too hot! (Or maybe it just felt that way because everyone is still used to the idea of winter weather.)

I showed amanda my school, and the hedgehog statue not too far away. Then we made our way over to a bakery that has my favorite cinnamon rolls...there is just a slight glaze on them, they're perfect. Most cinnamon rolls in this country are too dry.
That was just a snack. (Snacks are wonderful, and definitely a weakness for me.)
We took the metro next, then walked to one of my favorite (if not very favourite) restaurants. Both of us wanted a meal, not just a series of snacks.
Revolution Grill is awesome. The menu is somewhat eclectic, it's not at all Ukrainian. Some Asian food, a few middle eastern items too. I had pho, plus a caramel flavored milkshake (they make their own caramel flavoring!) and pumpkin creme brûlée. It was too much, but sooo worth it.

The head chef/owner came over to talk to us, even bringing us a free dessert at one point! The restaurant has been open less than a year, so the menu is still expanding, and the chef is always curious about the opinions of his customers. The food is healthy, and the ingredients are seasonal as much as possible. I try to eat here at least once a month, just because.
The evening was very relaxed, just the way I like it :)
I had to work all day Wednesday, booo. Even worse, I had to wait a fter school to be available in case parents wanted to talk to me about student evaluations we recently completed. No parents showed up, I spent the extra hour and a half really annoyed.
Amanda and I met up for dinner, we went to a place geared toward tourists not far from Khreshchatyk st. I don't always like to do this (go to touristy restaurants) when I'm traveling, but this place has a menu full of traditional Ukrainian food. I figure every visitor has to try salo, even though we don't usually finish all that is served, hee hee.
After dinner we went to the chocolate store not too far away, and picked up some dessert. YUM!
Thursday morning amanda took a taxi to the airport and flew back to Istanbul. Thursday night I flew to Helsinki, a new city for me to explore.

ukraine: kyiv: St Sophia pysanky exhibition

this is my fourth school year in kyiv, but this is only the second year i have gone to the pysanky (very very decorated easter egg) exhibition at st sophia cathedral in kyiv...i'm guessing i just missed the first two years)
the church and it's grounds are quite close to where i work, so i decided to go visit after i was done teaching one workday...
the entrance fee for the exhibition is 10 griven...do the math, and it's less than $.50USD...cheap!!!
there isn't much to say, i just wandered around and looked at the eggs :)