I'm not sure if
there was a specific reason we chose to go to Astrakhan. Maybe we
liked the name, I really don't know. It was a holiday weekend because
of a Russian holiday, (defender of the fatherland day, which
generally honours men, especially veterans,) so we wanted to go a bit
further than a normal weekend trip.
Astrakhan is nearly
1400 kilometers southeast of Moscow, of course we flew. Our flight
landed in the middle of the night, so we found some seats in the
airport and tried to sleep, or at least rest a little.
The first mention
of Astrakhan was way back in the 13th century, when it was
known by another name I can't pronounce.
Like so many other parts of
western and southern Russia, Astrakhan has a lot of fighting in its
history. Tamerlane burnt the city to the ground when the Golden Horde
tried to take over the world.
(What is now)
Russia first took control of Astrakhan when Ivan the Terrible was in
charge, in the mid 16th century. Soon after he took over
he ordered a kremlin to be built on top of the hill; Wikipedia tells
me this is considered the founding date of the modern city. There was no interruption in habitation in the area, so I don't know why the founding date isn't earlier.
Peter the Great had
shipyards built in the city, because the location of the city on the
Volga made it quite important to shipping and transportation in the
area. Catherine the Great increased the industrial aspects of the
city as well. In other words, the leaders of Russia recognized the
geopolitical importantance of Astrakhan from the very beginning.
When morning rolled
around and we decided to find public transport into the city we were
thrilled to find a giant city sign right outside the airport. We
never turn down a team photo at a city sign.
It was easy to find
the bus stop, then take a marshrutka right into the city. We hopped
off next to one side of the kremlin, then started walking in the
direction of our accomodation. The kremlin of Astrakhan is probably
the most identifiable place in the city, and its appearance hasn't
changed much throughout history. Long white stone walls.
We passed a Lenin
statue, next to another side of the kremlin. Even though Lenin
statues around the country (even around the world,) generally look
the same, we're still fascinated and still usually take a photo.
We found the hotel
we booked easily enough, though our request/insistence that we not be
registered wasn't so easy for the hotel to deal with. Since all three
of us are foreigners, we are supposed to be registered everywhere we
go, and we're supposed to be registered where each of us lives in
Moscow.
My landlady in
Moscow won't register me, I have to pay someone else to register me
somewhere in the city. If I am registered in another city, it means I
have to re-register when I get back to Moscow, meaning I have to pay
again. As much as I'm traveling this year, I can't afford to get
registered each time I come back to Moscow.
Howeva, I could also see
where the hotel was coming from, as the law says they are supposed to
register everyone who comes through, especially foreigners. A little
creativity and the problem was solved with money, and we were able to
check in.
After relaxing for
a bit, we started walking again, following one of the canals running
through the city. Most of it was frozen, which was awesome. It was
even more awesome when we came across a group playing ice hockey.
Very fun to watch for a few minutes. As Angela is from Canada, and is
a hockey fan in general, she loved it even more than Claire and I
did.
From the canal we
walked up the hill, to the entrance gate of the kremlin. Entrance to
the property was free, woo hoo. The interior of the kremlin was
somewhat standard, with a couple churches and other buildings that
are now museums.
We wanted to go in
one of the churches, but discovered the main level was closed. Only
the lower level was open, but it was still pretty nice. We could see
that the upper level had a lot of windows, which means it is probably
beautiful inside, but who knows.
We wanted to see a
few of the museums, but when we tried to buy tickets we discovered
that not all of them were open, argh. We ended up buying tickets for
what was open, only two museums.
One of the open
museums was called the guardhouse museum, which had some dioramas of
daily life at various points in the history of the area. We got to
see some of the uniforms worn by soldiers who had fought for
different groups, and items they used.
The other museum
was in the cellar of a building, I'm not all that sure what it was
supposed to be about. Oh well.
Our next sight
ended up on our list because I saw it on a magnet and asked the lady
selling the magnet where it was located. Russia is full of victory
arches, commemorating the many battles in the history of the country.
A minute after we
arrived at the arch, a wedding party arrived as well. We were able to
take a team photo before they took over the area. (They recognized
what we wanted to do, and that it wouldn't take long.) There was a
fountain on one side of the arch, but since it was the end of
February the fountain wasn't running.
Behind the arch was
a heroes alley, with busts of local heroes lined up on pedestals. As
always, I didn't recognize the names, and told myself I'd look them
up later, but (as always,) that didn't happen.
At the other end of
the 'alley' was a statue of Peter the 1st. I think the
statue generally marks the beginning of the riverfront esplanade
along the Volga River. The boardwalk has been developed quite nicely,
with quirky statues at various points, and nice views of the river.
At the other end of
the riverwalk was a sushi place where we opted to have dinner.
Even
though it was only 1800 or so, we were exhausted, and struggled not
to fall asleep at dinner.
The room rate we'd
paid included breakfast, but it wasn't much. I only had oatmeal,
sigh.
We started our day
by walking to Victory Square, though part of the Muslim Quarter. We
walked past a couple markets, and over a couple canals too.
Our arrival at
Victory Square was not at all impressive. A thick level of dirt
covered everything, it was not pretty at all. I'm hoping that's just
because it was the end of February and the city hadn't done any
spring cleaning yet.
From the square
(which wasn't a square, it was just an area in the middle of the
road,) we could see onion domes, so that's where we went next. St
John the Baptist monastery had a red brick exterior with gold and
maroon domes. I thought it was super ugly outside, but the inside was
absolutely lovely. A dark wood iconostasis, with walls and ceilings
of sea green. One part of the ceiling was covered by a painting of a
double headed eagle.
Quite a bit more
walking brought us to another 'park.' I put that in quotes because it
was basically a small square with some benches and trees, and a big
memorial.
The memorial honours those who fought from 1919-1921.
Not far from this
'park' we saw more walls that made us think of a kremlin or
monastery. We finally found an open entrance, but weren't able to go
very far in. I couldn't tell if it was abandoned, or protected, as
looked empty, but there was a security gate too. Weird.
We kept going to
get to our last sight: the frog and toad museum. Add this one to the
quirky museums of Russia list you didn't know you had. (Like the fairytale museum in Rostov Veliky.)
It wasn't much
of anything, basically just a collection of all things frog and toad.
Heaps and heaps of figurines, and some games in the last room.
This museum wasn't
far from the sushi place at which we'd eaten dinner the night before,
and the food had been decent, so we decided to go back for another
dinner. The food was fine, and we didn't have to wait too long.
The bus stop for a
bus to take us back to the airport wasn't too far from the
restaurant, we were already at the bus stop when I realized I'd left
my backpack at the restaurant. Eeeek. Thankfully the bus to the
airport came every 15 minutes or so, so I had time to run back and
get my backpack, and still be able to catch the next bus. Phew.
Our flight back to
Moscow was easy, as was getting back home for each of us. I don't
think I need to come back to Astrakhan, but it was a nice weekend.