10 March 2012

hades riviera


The thing about going to sleep really early is you wake up pretty early the next morning...i was wide awake around 0600...it was light out, but i didn't want to get up yet...my normal alarm clock for work doesn't even go off until 0700!!
my mate cory is going to kill me if he ever reads this, because it's all about my very poor planning...well, more like complete lack of planning...the entire day my plans for what to see kept changing...if i'd figured out a proper itinerary at the beginning of the day i'd have been able to see quite a bit...as it was, i backtracked way too much...anywho...
since friday was the day after the official holiday, i hoped the post office would be open...i was wrong...so i'm still carrying around letters i've meant to mail for around a week now...argh...i really wanted to mail the letters...
my first place to see was livadia palace, i mentioned it in my previous post...i hopped on a marshrutka from a small bus station really close to my hotel...(again, the hotel was quite conveniently located)...i hopped off around 20 minutes later...i think...i'm not good at figuring out how much time has gone by...
i made my way to the kaca to buy my ticket, only to discover that i had arrived 40 minutes before the palace opened...oops...i should mention that it was snowing rather heavily, and i was cold, so this was not good news...there was nowhere indoors that i could see, so i walked toward the gardens, hoping to find a way to kill time...
that didn't work very well, but i did find the romanov family chapel (remember in the previous post when i mentioned that that family had owned this palace at one time?) so i was able to get inside for a few minutes...the chapel is quite small, not really what i was expecting for the family chapel of a tsar...not only the chapel of the tsar's family, but the chapel in which tsar nicholas took an oath of fidelity to russia...before going in i wrapped a scarf around my head, so i would be dressed appropriately...guys take off their hats when they go in orthodox churches, women cover their heads...hmmm...there was a service going on when i walked in, so i stood at the back and watched for a while...at 5 till 10 i walked back to the ticket lady and was able to purchase my entrance ticket...i think it's the most expensive place i've been in all of ukraine!!! almost $7!!!
to see livadia palace you have to join a tour...which is led in russian...there are no tours in any other languages...unless you've booked a private tour on your own? needless to say, i had no idea what was being said...at all...i heard a lot of words like angliski, americanski, and such, but i still didn't know what was being said...so i entertained myself by taking heaps of photos...the first room you see is the gala room, which is where all the plennary (sp?) meetings took place during the yalta conference...it's big and white with a fireplace at one end....you don't actually get to go in the room, you simply stand at one end and use your camera to zoom in on the table and fireplace at the other end...i wonder if it was the real table? How many translators were present at all those meetings? Were small items ever lost in the nuances of translation?
I don't know what the other rooms we saw were...the rooms on the ground floor were set up as they were during the yalta conference...(7-11 february 1945)...the rooms on the 2nd floor were set up with exhibits of photos about the romanovs, the russian military, and other russian life...about half of those exhibits had english captions, so i was able to understand what i was seeing...it was while we were on this floor that i realized just how cold i was...this is mid march, and it's still pretty cold...the meetings of the yalta conference took place in mid february, how did they keep the place warm? In all the photos everyone has on warm coats, but i'm wondering if they wore those coats during the meetings as well? As cold as i was, there was no way you could've paid me to take off my coat...
this is where my lack of planning was just plain stupid...after the palace tour i caught the marshrutka back to yalta and ate lunch...a lovely little cafeteria style place right next to my hotel...from there i walked to alexander nevsky church...i'd seen a couple photos, and wanted to take my own photos...the outside of the church was far more interesting than the inside...the iconostasis was partly covered, as if it was under repair/renovation, and there was very little lighting...
from there i walked back to the wee little bus station, and caught another marshrutka going back the way i'd already been...i wanted to take a cable car up a ways to a place called the ay-petri plateau...i got off that marshrutka at 1455, only to see that the cable car was closed...the sign said they closed at 1500, and i was ahead of that, but apparently they didn't wait all the way to 1500 to close...darnit...if i'd gone from livadia straight to the cable car this wouldn't have been an issue...actually, what i should've done was taken the marshrutka as far as it would go in the morning, and seen vorontsov palace, where another of the yalta conference delegations stayed...(the brits i think?)...that palace is in alupka...then the cable car....but i didn't plan, and ended up missing those two...
from the missed cable car i took the marshrutka back toward yalta, hopping off at a place called the swallow's nest...it looks like a pretty fancy castle...it's really small, i didn't bother going in...it's the view of the castle that you go to see...the castle was built for a private owner, there is no historical value as far as i know...it sits on the edge of a cliff, it's really pretty...
then the marshrutka (i'm getting really tired of typing that word) back to yalta...i should've done all these things, then seen the church in town; i know i would've had plenty of time...originally i thought of walking a path from livadia to the cable car station, but the weather was such crap i didn't think i'd be able to see anything...so i guess i wouldn't have been able to see everything anywho, unless i'd done it all backward...if i ever get back to crimea i know what i'll want to see...in yalta anywho...
once back in the city i walked along the waterfront promenade again...crazy windy...still fun to watch people...i took a few photos of some of the statues, it had been too dark the night before...one of them was pushkin, i don't remember the others off the top of my head...
a lowkey dinner, another supermarket trip...i decided to try two drinks i hadn't had before, and was sorely disappointed...one of them appeared to be lemonade in a glass bottle...after nearly breaking my hand to get the cap off (why don't i carry a lighter?) i was gutted...it was a cream flavoured lemonade...not at all what i wanted...i really dont like the smell of cream drinks...yuck...the other was a fruit mix...i wasn't quite so gutted, but i wasnt impressed enough to finish it...darnit...
another early night...


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