29 January 2017

ukraine: kyiv: two weekends/sights in the city

This post is a combination of two weekends/sights in Kyiv. 
Since I've been here six years, I've been thinking I should see more of what is in Kyiv. Plus, knowing I'm going to see something in the city keeps me motivated to get out of bed on weekends I'm going to travel. 
During my first year here, one of my cousins came to visit me when I'd been here just two weeks. We tried to do the walking tour mentioned in the lonely planet guidebook, and succeeded for the most part. Howeva, there was a place listed that we never found. The name of the place was Chocolate House. At the time, we figured that was a nickname, and wouldn't be listed anywhere. We also didn't have a specific address.
In the past year I've started following a company called TourismUA on Facebook. Every now and again they post a list of somewhat unknown places in the country, or the city. 
A couple weeks ago I saw a list that included the Chocolate House, and it included an address. Yay! 
It took me a while to get going on a Saturday, even though my original plan was to get up early. (Story of my life: I'm awake but don't actually get moving for too long.) I took the metro to the city center, and walked from there. Google maps told me exactly where to go, it made everything easy. 
I got to the building, which was painted chocolate brown, the colour made me wonder how we had missed it years ago. There was a small sign on the exterior wall, describing some of the history of the building. 
The Chocolate House is now a museum of Russian art. When I walked in, there were three women sitting behind a desk, they all looked up. From the expressions on their faces, I don't think they get many single, one off visitors. 
My ticket price was only 25 griven, less than a dollar. I also took advantage of the cost check, which is typical in museums of this country. Everything is quite cheap compared to western prices.
There was a small temporary exhibition of art on the first/ground floor, so that's where I started. I liked the pieces, they were filled with blocks of color. If I ever have a permanent place to live this is the type of art I'd love to put on the walls. 
Up the stairs to the second floor is where the interesting area is for most people. This building was originally a private residence, and some of that architecture still remains. The stairway up to the second floor was elegant, I loved it. 
Upon entering the first room on the second floor I looked up. I've grown to love ceilings, so that's where I look first. This ended up being my favourite ceiling in the place. Something about the colour variety, combined with the light of the chandelier. Back in the day was there such a thing as an interior designer? 
The room itself was also interesting, though there was another set of art arranged on easels. I loved the room, not so much the art. Or at least not the way the art covered up the original beauty of the art. I wanted to carry the easels and tables out of the room, then take my photo of just the room.
Each room was beautiful. Each ceiling was unique, and one of them had a large chandelier hanging down.  I definitely spent more time looking up than around. 
The next 'sight' was the following weekend. 
I had to get up early on a Saturday morning for a doctor's appointment. After the appointment was over I decided I might as well take advantage of being out and about 
The first was a place I'd heard about several times, once even in international media. A stairwell, believe it or not. The article had described the stairwell, including a couple photos. 
When I see a photo I know it means I'm not the first to see it, but at the same time, it's usually the photo that catches my eye and makes me want to go see a place. When guidebooks have photos of various places I'm much more likely to go see those places, as opposed to the places for which there is simply written information. 
I found a photo of this stairwell in the same group of photos mentioned by TourismUA, also with an address. Since it was in abnormal residential building I didn't know if I would be able to get inside, but I figured it was worth a try. 
I rode the metro to a nearby stop, then walked. I should make a correction here, it wasn't really nearby, it was just the closest. I had to cross the street to walk in the correct direction, which wasn't super easy. After walking for about 45 minutes, (with a stop for snacks along the way at a supermarket,) I found the building. 
It turned out to be a type of building built in great quantity here back during the communist years. 8 or 9 stories tall, with multiple entrances to different areas. Each entrance requires a key code or magnetic key to get in. My apartment building is just like this one, though perhaps with fewer entrance doors. 
I was a bit dismayed when I got there, not knowing which entrance I would need to find this particular staircase. The information I had gave me the floor numbers, but not the entrance number, and I could see at least 8 entrances. 
To make a long story short, I got lucky. I happened to be really close to one of the entrances when a woman came out, so I ducked inside before the door closed. From the bottom of the stairs I couldn't see anything exciting, but I decided to climb anywho. 
It was worth it!! After I got a few floors up I could see I'd gotten lucky, and found the correct entrance on the first try. Yahoo!
The man who decorated the two levels of the stairwell is a city employee, working in transportation. From what I learned, it took him 15 years to do everything. I wonder if he will do more? Most everything is painted green, yellow, or white. There is gold trim, portraits, and fancy carving. It really is incredible to think this is in a regular residential building, by a normal guy. Even the elevator doors and surroundings were decorated. 
I'm not sure what I would've done if I'd been wrong. I don't think I would've had the patience to stand by each door in turn, just waiting for someone to come out.
Walking back to the metro was a bit shorter, since I knew where I was going. I love sights like these, it's always good to know the city in which you live.

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