18 August 2017

cuba: the end in havana

Amazingly enough, my bus from Vinales to Havana arrived 30 minutes early!! This even with a 30 minute stop for food in some random place built just for buses going through. Not many of the people on our bus ate, as it was still too early for lunch. I think we also gained time because there were a couple possible stops to which the bus didn't go, I assume there were no ticketed passengers.
Anywho, it was lovely to arrive early. I walked out of the bus station and found a cab (who first tried to tell me that the price I wanted was too low. I was ready to walk away, and started to, before being called back. I checked into my new accomodation, (the same place I'd stayed in Havana just a few nights earlier,) dropped my bag, and started walking.
Even though this was my third time in Havana I still took numerous pictures of cars, and general life on the streets. Old cars definitely exist where I live now, but these classic american cars typically only show up at car shows.
My first sight was a museum, the museo Napoleonico. There was a 3 CUC entry fee, and no photo fee. I even asked, just to make sure. The building itself was awesome, regardless of what was in it, with one downfall: no air con, and no fans. If there were fans, they weren't turned on. It was slightly cooler inside than outside, but I could feel the sweat pouring off me.
Everything in the museum was about Napoleon. Everything. All 7000+ items were collected by Julio Lobo, a sugar baron, and Orestes Ferrara, a politician. His clothes from different battles, a representation of one of his dining rooms (which was quite possibly one of the ugliest rooms I've ever seen, with lime green curtains,) his bedroom, and various weapons used in his battles.
A library of books, all about Napoleon. There was also a terrace/patio on the top level, beautiful tile decoration, and great views in several directions. It was also the only place with a breeze, which felt amazing at that point.
Not too far from the museum was the University of Havana. The campus was really pretty, at least what I could see of it from the bottom of a giant set of steps. For whateva reason, the steps were blocked off by a rope, so I couldn't go any further. There was absolutely no shade anywhere near the steps, so when I sat in the middle of them to take a photo my bum was very toasty very quickly.
The benefit to the steps/campus being roped off was that no one else was in my photo.
From there I walked all the way to the tourist center of Havana, back in Havana vieja. It was an easy walk, almost entirely straight down one street, but it was long. This walk took me to something I'd wanted to see previously, but had been closed on the day I showed up. A theater.
This theatre used to be two buildings, not connected to each other. The National Theater and the Galician Culture Palace. Due to a recent renovation, (it had only been open a year or so when I showed up, after being closed for 3 years,) the buildings are now connected, and part of the same tour.
My entry fee was 5 CUC, again without a photo fee.
At first I was the only person in the tour. Then someone else came, and after a bit longer, a few more people. Most of the tour was in English, which was obviously convenient for me. When necessary, the guide tried to speak in Italian and French.
There are two grand entries, the guide said at one point all the columns I could see had been marble. Now, only two of them are still marble, the others are painted to look as if they're marble. I have to admit I wouldn't have known the difference if the guide hadn't said anything.
The theater itself was gorgeous. It was very similar to a classic European theater, very grand. As we walked in, the guide told us it was the oldest operating theater in the Americas, with many notable performers through its history. I imagine watching a performance from one of the box seats is quite an experience.
On the side of the Galician Cultural center, the main steps were absolutely fantastic. I could've stood there and stared for a few minutes. Absolutely gorgeous.
The whole complex is named for Alicia Alonso, a well known Cuban ballerina.
The tour ended at the cafe on the top floor of the cultural center side. Sitting in one of the seats near the windows offered a great view of the Capitol. Also on the top floor was an art exhibition, including some photos. Nice to wander around for a few minutes.
Next I walked along a street trying to find a restaurant named in the guidebook. I couldn't find it, and walked all the way around the entire building. Eventually I found it, mostly because there was a small queue of people. I wanted my turn, and was thrilled when the host told the people trying to cut in front of me that I was next. (I'm soooo used to people doing that, it's annoying.)
I was not terribly impressed with the restaurant. First, it was very dark inside, even though it was only 1600 or so. I get the idea of mood lighting, but this was waaaay too dark. There was one candle at my table, but it didn't help much.
After I ordered, my food came REALLY fast, which told me it had been preprepared, and had been ready even before I ordered. The shrimp was mushy, which told me it was frozen when it entered the kitchen, not fresh. It was so dark I could barely see my food, argh. When the bill came, it took them foreva to bring my change.
For tourist prices, it was a decent price for the amount of food. Compared to the few meals I'd eaten out during this trip it was not worth it.
On my way back to my room, I decided to use my last wifi card, since it was my last night. Thankfully there was a public park on my way, it was a wifi hotspot. After I used up my wifi time, I continued sitting on the bench just to watch people.
My original plan for the evening was to walk to the malecon for a last Cuban sunset. Unfortunately, just as I was about to go out and walk, it started raining. Pouring, actually. I ended up staying in, nothing exciting.
The next morning I packed up and checked out, and out on the street at 0845. It was easy to flag down a taxi to go to the airport, and when the driver said his price I was shocked. He offered only 10 CUC, which was less than half of what I expected. I double and triple checked, he confirmed the same number each time. The ride was smooth and got me to the airport in plenty of time.
I ended up paying him 25 CUC, which was the price I had originally expected to pay.
I looked for postcards at the airport, but didn't buy any since they were all priced at 1 CUC. There is no way I"m paying that much for a postcard, unless the city was absolutely stunning.
My flights back to Indiana were smooth, and on time.
I would love to come back to Cuba, to explore more of the island. Next time though, I'm not visiting in August though, it is waaaaaay too hot and humid.

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