24 June 2019

russia: moscow: kuskovo, goodbye, and an afternoon walk


This weekend was the end of a great two years of exploring Russia with Claire, and one year of exploring with Angela. The three of us had been living together for almost two weeks, so in that sense we were ready to split up, but it was a bit weird knowing that this was my last time with them for the forseeable future.
After the failed attempt at going to a museum estate last weekend, Claire and I wanted to try again. This time we chose to ride the metro to the closest stop, then walk for a while. The metro doesn't randomly skip stations unless the information has been made public for quite a while.
Kuskovo was the summer country house estate of the Sheremetev family. I can't help but wonder if they referred to it as their dacha, or cottage. I don't know where the 'regular' house was for the family.
The property came into Sheremetev family possession in the 17th century, under Field Marshal Boris Petrovich Sheremetev. At the time, there was already a church, several ponds, and a house on the property. I assume that house was impressive for the time, but wouldn't be now. Just having your own property back in the 17th century meant quite a bit. 
The current palace was built by the son, Petr Borisovich Sheremetev. He was one of the richest people in the entire country, and wanted to make sure everyone knew it when looking at his palace. According to Wikipedia, when he ordered the palace to be built, he ordered that it be bigger and more beautiful than the estates of other nobles, and equal to the residences of the tsars.
Building everything on the estate took around 60 years, as the estate itself is over 740 acres; the palace work was begun in 1754.
After a long walk (during which we saw at least one church, several supermarkets, and a sign to an entrance of a specific regions of the city,) from the metro to the entrance gates of the property, we found ourselves with the standard multiple ticket options for visiting a state like this. It's annoying, but I guess Russians are used to it. There is a ticket that just allows entrance to the property, which is good if you want to have a family picnic, or something like that. Russians like to have picnics with family and friends, as most Russian homes aren't that big, and being social means getting out of the house.
We bought the ticket that gave us access to the property, and the main palace. There are a couple other buildings on the property with ticketed entrance, but we weren't in the mood. To me, it looked like the buildings are mostly arranged around a rectangular, landscaped garden in the middle.
Almost as soon as we entered the property Claire and I found ourselves trying to avoid getting in the frame of photographers taking wedding photos. During the first 30 minutes alone we counted at least 5 couples having photos taken, and that was just outside. 
It seemed all of them were shooting daggers with their eyes at the regular folks wandering around, which was annoying. We paid our entrance fee, just like they did. If you want the area to be free of people, you need to show up at a completely different time. This was early afternoon on a Saturday, with fantastic weather.
As we wandered through the palace we found ourselves avoiding another couple having their wedding photos taken. How annoying.
Like other palaces we've seen, this one had a bunch of great ceilings and chandeliers, as well as overdone wallpaper and furniture. I know it's a matter of taste and style, but I am definitely not someone who wants all that crap in the place I live. 
None of the furniture looked very comfortable, neither did any of the beds.
Even with all that, Claire and I were glad we'd seen the place. I wouldn't mind going back to see the gardens and property in general in winter, when everything is covered in snow.
On our way back to Moscow, we texted Angela so all three of us could have a last dinner together at a Korean restaurant in the city. Yum. This restaurant was the first place we shared a meal as a trio, so it seemed perfect as the last place we shared a meal. As we seem to do quite regularly, we ate too much, and walked out feeling more than full. 
The next morning all three of us were up early, then I sent the ladies away in a taxi. They headed to the airport, to start their journeys home in other countries. I was pretty surprised at how gutted I felt after they left. I'd definitely gotten used to being around them during most of my explorations, especially during weekends.
A little after noon I went out for a walk, as the weather was good. I started by walking to Petropavlovsky Hotel, which is impressive. It was originally built as a palace where nobles and royals could stay and freshen up after their journeys from St Petersburg.
I wasn't able to go in the hotel, as the whole thing is surrounded by a fence, which has security gates in a couple places. I didn't try, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't get in without a hotel reservation.
The hotel was across the street from a park, and on the other side of the park was a small church with pretty gardens. Earlier in the walk I had seen a Lenin memorial, I'm pretty sure I'll never be able to see all there is of that man around Moscow.
After wandering around outside for a while, I decided to keep exploring something that is definitely on my checklist: the metro system of Moscow. Petropavlovsky hotel was pretty close to Dinamo metro station, which is on the northern half of the dark green line. 
I hadn't seen most of the stations on the northern half of the line, so this seemed like as good a time as any. As usual, some of them were more aesthetically pleasing than others. That being said, all the stations were clean, and smelled normal. That is, they didn't smell bad. 
The metro system in Moscow really is a museum all by itself. Incredible. 
This is the way I like to explore: start out with one or two specific places to see, then wander around the area, and see whateva strikes my fancy, or seems at all interesting. Moscow has soooo many areas to visit and explore!

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