Showing posts with label battlefield. Show all posts
Showing posts with label battlefield. Show all posts

22 April 2019

russia: moscow and borodino


In a prior post I'm pretty sure I've mentioned some of the 'Instagram' museums we visited. We had one more visit left on our ticket, so we chose to go on Friday night. One of the options was for throwing plates, which sounded like a great stress reliever.
The ticket to this museum allows you to throw three plates at a wall and watch them break. There is a marker available, if you want to label your plates with a particular stress, but we skipped that. Throwing plates just feels good!
If it had been allowed, we each could've thrown stacks and stacks of plates. It was fun and just felt good.
Afterward we had dinner at the diner down the road.
The next morning all three of us had to be up pretty early to catch an elektrichka at 0715. Catching a train that early means getting there around 0650 to buy tickets and find the train. Doing that means leaving my flat around 0630, which means waking up at 0600, on a Saturday. Sigh. Fortunately I almost always think a day trip is worth waking up early.
The train was a bit over 2 hours, arriving at 0930. The train station in Borodino was quite small, with a low ceiling. 
The outside of the station looked far better than the inside, as it memorialized what happened in Borodino in 1812.
The battle of Borodino was fought on 7 September 1812, between Russia and France during the Napoleonic Wars. Wikipedia tells me 250,000 troops were involved, with 70,000 casualties. It was the deadliest day of the Napoleonic Wars, indicating just how bad it was.
The French won this particular battle, but it didn't mean much in the end, as they were unable to hold Moscow for very long.
Visiting this area is best done with your own car/transport, but we didn't have that option. Instead we walked. A LOT. We walked and walked and walked.
Visiting this area means looking at a lot of war memorials. Nearly all of them are very specific, dedicated to specific companies and battalions and such. The specific groups didn't mean much to me, but honouring those who fought did.
Some of the memorials are quite close to the road, others sit back further into the fields. Some have paths leading directly to them, others involve walking through the grass.
The very first memorial was just outside the front of the train station. It wasn't very interesting aesthetically, so none of us took a photo of that one. Some of the memorials were more interesting aesthetically, others not so much.
The biggest memorial was to Prince Peter Ivanovich Bagration. He was of Georgian origin, and died on the battlefield of Borodino, as a general.
We also visited a convent in the area, called Spaso Borodinsky monastery/convent. It was founded in 1839, by the Maria Tuchkova, the widow of one of the men who had died during the battle of Borodino. 
She raised funds, getting some financial help from the widow of Emperor Paul.
Work on the first church began in 1818, after she bought the land. The Saviour Miraculous Image church was finished in 1820. Other life circumstances for Mrs. Tuchkova brought her to living in a cottage on the field, and founding a religious community, being joined by other war widows.
In 1838 she became a nun, in 1839 she founded the convent, later becoming Mother Superior. The state closed the convent during Soviet times, but it was returned to the church in 1992, after the fall of the Soviet Union.
There are several churches in the complex, though I couldn't tell you the names of any of them. We only went inside one of them, it was nice. They were careful to make sure we covered our heads and added wraparound skirts over our pants.
A couple of the buildings on the property are now museums, but we didn't visit them. It was enough to step inside the church and honour the reasons it was built for a few minutes.
Not long after leaving the convent we realized we needed to walk pretty fast in order to get back to the train station in time to catch the train we wanted. There is nothing like speedwalking that far, whoops! Thankfully we did catch the train, each of us went to her own flat when we got back to Moscow.
Sunday morning all three of us met up again, a bit later this time :)
Our original plan was to visit the state history museum, on Red Square. When we got there we found really long queues, so we figured it must be free museum weekend again. 
We would've loved to see the museum for free, but had zero desire to share the space with that many people. Sigh. This was the 3rd or 4th time we'd tried to see the museum, foiled again!
Instead we walked through GUM, the state department store on another side of Red Square. We opted to do something else very traditional, that is to get ice cream in this mall. Not amazing, not awful.
From there we walked all the way to another mall, this one much more modern. It was a two hour walk, but the weather was quite nice, so we didn't mind.
Afimall is in the area known as Moscow City, the main business district of Moscow. When we got there we met up with our friend Rayne, who wanted to visit a coffee festival.
I'm not sure why we decided to go to the fest, since none of us (except Rayne,) drink coffee, but it was fun to meet up with her. I love the smell and atmosphere of coffee, just not the taste. Somehow there were competitions at the festival, I'm not sure what there is to compete for in coffee, but it happens.
Since we didn't consume anything at the coffee festival we walked to another metro station, then went to our third mall of the day. The top floor of this mall had a food court, one of the restaurants had Asian food. Yum.
And that is the story of our weekend :)

25 November 2013

ukraine: poltava

continuing my plans to visit everywhere in Ukraine, Susannah and I booked tickets to a town called Poltava, 3 hrs from Kyiv...our train left Saturday morning at 0559, which meant I was up waaaaay too early for a Saturday...the train was one of the fancy shmancy new trains, I think it was made in korea...a nice, smooth ride, dropping us in Poltava at 0900 or so...
we found a market with old babushkas and random stuff right outside the train station...I wonder if that happens every day?
Susannah does not like dogs, so she wasn't thrilled to see wild dogs barking as we walked toward the city center from the train station...
our walk to the city centre took us across a bridge, up a hill, and showed us parks, a view across the valley to a church, and a couple monuments...Poltava is a pretty town...
we found a big park in the city center, and followed a pedestrian street from there to a random café for breakfast...along the way I found a place that had postcards available, I figured I would go back after we'd actually seen some of the sights...
just after we finished eating, the guy from whom we'd booked a flat called, so we met up with him and he directed us to the flat...it's sooo much better to rent flats while traveling in ukraine than book a hotel...
after getting settled in, we walked back to the main pedestrian area, and walked the entire length...
we stumbled upon a gathering of people, it took us a while to figure out what the gathering was for...after realizing the date, susannah figured out it was to remember the Holodomor...
in the early 1930s there was a famine in Ukraine, several million people died...there is some debate as to the cause of the famine, but most anyone outside of Russia agrees that the famine was man made, (by the policies of Stalin) and generally avoidable...yes, the weather was bad, but sealing the borders of the country so people couldn't escape is uncalled for...i don't see the issue ever being totally settled...
anywho, the Holodomor is remembered toward the end of each November in Ukraine...it's a solemn occasion, to say the least...i haven't seen the events in Kyiv, I was 'happy' to participate in Poltava...after listening for a while (not that either of us understood anything) we continued walking along the pedestrian area...
we saw a small church, it was very cozy...
at the end of the pedestrian area, we crossed into a park/landscaped grounds...there was a big church in the middle of it all, and a separate bell tower...just outside the bell tower and entrance to the church were a few candles, we didn't think too much of it at the time...inside was a memorial to the dead and the living, (one on each side of the room) so susannah and i each lit two candles...
the inside of this church was being renovated, we didn't much like what we could see had been finished so far...oh well...it felt too modern...
we came back out to find more candles on the ground...
walking further into the park, looking for a specific monument...a GIANT bowl of dumplings...we got there just a bit too late in the day, the lighting was terrible for photos :( ...definitely one of the most unique monuments i've seen...i wouldn't mind coming back just to take photos of this monument again...i don't know if it was making a statement?
as we turned around and went back toward the church, thinking of heading back to the flat, we saw a procession approaching the church...quite a large procession, led by priests with flags...a truck playing somber music was there as well...the procession stopped just outside the church, and many of the people added candles to those already on the ground...a beautiful display of memory for what happened...
we ended up leaving because we were cold and hungry...dinner was at a restaurant that had traditional dumplings...they were huge!
the next morning when the apartment guy came to collect the key, he called a taxi for us, which took us just a bit outside of town to old battlefields...what the fields once were is not obvious now, of course...
back in the 1700s (i think? or was it 1600s?) sweden was a power in europe...sorta hard to imagine now...they sent soldiers to several areas, including ukraine...unfortunately for sweden, they lost the battle of poltava...we walked through the small museum, and chatted briefly with one of the docents...not only were we foreigners, we were traveling in the off season to a place not even many ukrainians visit...
across the street was a lovely church with a memorial hill behind it...
then we walked down the street to find a couple more memorials to the battles...one of these memorials wasn't easy to find, as it was very simple, and a bit off the road with no obvious path to get there, even though we knew where it was...these memorials were in modern farm fields!
a taxi back to town took us back to the central park, we both wanted lunch...we ended up going to the same place at which we'd eaten yesterday...
after what we thought was a quick lunch, we walked quickly to the train station...only to realize at the last moment that it wasn't the right train station...ooops...i felt like an idiot for not having checked the tickets more carefully, as i think the clerk who sold me the tickets told me we would come into one station, and go out of the other...fortunately we were able to buy tickets for a train later that evening...
since we had later tickets, we had 5.5 hours to kill, mostly in the dark...booo...since it was dark, we wandered back into town, then spent a couple hours (at least) at a cafe for dinner...
not quite the ending we wanted, but it was a nice weekend :)