During
my previous trip to Lviv I figured out how to get to even more towns in
the area, so I knew I'd be back, probably more than once. People wonder
why I visit these small towns, but I like them. It's a chance to see
'normal' life.
I
took the cheap night train again, arriving in Lviv at 0400 or so.
Before leaving the train station, I took photos of the electric train
schedules, to use for research before my next Lviv trip. Hopefully I remember to use those photos, and don't just delete them.
I
walked to my accommodation, along rainy, slush muddy streets. Quiet
streets. The entrance to the hostel was on the back side of the
building, through a construction zone. There were signs pointing the way, but since it was still dark, it took me a while to see them.
I
wasn't able to check in yet, (it was only 0500 or so,) but I was able
to sit in the kitchen for a while. I warmed up, dried off, charged my
phone, and checked online accounts. 0500 my time is around bedtime for quite a few people in the states, so a lot gets posted at that time.
Around
0630 I left my bag in the hostel, and walked out. I caught a tram from
the old town square and rode it to the end of the line. Then I walked
about 100 meters down the road and found a marshrutka stop.
Waiting at the stop was my friend Oresta. We'd planned to meet up here, though we took different trains to get to Lviv.
A
few minutes later we were able to board a marshrutka headed to a town
called Univ. As departure was at 0730, much of the ride was in the dark.
The ride went through a larger town, we were afraid that was as far as
it would go.
Thankfully the last stop of the marshrutka was actually just 200 meters down the road from where we wanted to go.
The
lavra in Univ is old. Centuries old. One of my guidebooks tells me the
first written mention is found at the end of the 13th century! At one
point it was a well known pilgrimage place. Times have changed though,
as I don't know anyone else who has ever been there, and most of my
Ukrainian friends have never heard of it.
On the road I took a selfie with the sign indicating where we were, just because I could.
First we walked to a wooden church outside the lavra area; unfortunately it wasn't open for us to enter.
We
entered the lavra area through the main gate. There seemed to be a
small room for security or someone else to sit in right at the gates,
but it was empty.
The
first thing my friend saw was a sign pointing us toward a miracle
stream. There was water coming out of spouts under a pretty mosaic, with
cups there if you wanted to drink.
Neither
one of us used the cups because we were sick and didn't want to pass
anything on. We did put our hands in the water, which wasn't nearly as
cold as we expected.
After
drying our hands on our clothes, we crossed a little bridge and went
through a gate into the inner area of the lavra. It is an active
monastery, so the buildings on these walls seemed to be mostly
dormitories and such. Most doors were not open, so I don't really know.
The
door to the church in the middle of this area was open, so we stepped
inside. The front of the church was covered in scaffolding, so it didn't
look that great.
There
were windows in the church, but there wasn't a whole lot of light
inside the church. There definitely wasn't any electric lighting, at
least none was turned on while we were in there. I'm sure the natural
lighting would've been better if the sky hadn't been so overcast.
The
entire church was covered in frescoes. Walls and ceiling. Because the
church is old, and there wasn't a lot of lighting, the frescoes appeared
a bit faded, and didn't jump out as much as I've seen in other
churches.
After
looking around for a few minutes, we turned around to leave. Oresta
noticed a small doorway to a set of stairs, which she knew would allow
access to an upper level of the church.
I
couldn't resist, and climbed up. The view wasn't super different, but I
always enjoy getting higher and seeing a different perspective.
The
church itself was in the middle of a courtyard/cloister type area, so
we walked along the inside of the walls. We found an entrance to a
museum, which wasn't open yet. We couldn't find a sign listing open
hours, so who knows.
After
circling the church, we exited the area through a different gate. I
wonder if one of the gates is used more than the other.
In
the gate we used to exit was an entrance to a small chapel, something
about the chapel of the Turin shroud. This chapel didn't feel nearly as
warm or welcoming as the church. I think part of it was made of marble,
which has never felt 'warm' to me.
Behind
the lavra are woods. Oresta noticed a trail, so we decided to walk. It
was muddy in parts, which wasn't fun at all. Sure, I finally have
waterproof winter boots, but that doesn't mean I like getting them
covered in mud. There was one long set of wooden steps, both of us were a
bit out of breath when we finally got to the top.
Near
the top of the stairs was a small cemetery. There was a low fence the
whole way around, which was not open. Nearly all the graves were the
same, in the shape of a cross. I'm guessing they are all people
connected to the lavra.
We
traipsed back down, still trying to avoid the mud. We walked around to
the other side of the lavra, hoping to find something to eat or drink at
the guesthouse. We entered the guesthouse, and its dining room, only to
be disappointed. The sign on the door said it was only for people
staying at the guesthouse. Darn it.
We
did find another sign in the hallway of the guesthouse, listing the
transport schedule to get back to Lviv. We realized we had at least two
more hours to kill before going back.
We
left the grounds of the lavra and walked into the village. Univ is
small. Really small. There is very little in the way of shops or public
spaces.
We
saw plenty of dilapidated houses, I have no idea if they are old or
not. Some were clearly abandoned, others I'm not so sure. We saw quite a
few chickens, and even saw a few really big turkeys. I don't think I'd
ever seen live turkeys before, except on tv.
We
still wanted something warm to drink, so we found a cafe. Or so we
thought. It turned out to be closed. The owner (who lived in the house
next door,) said we could try the state shop down the road. That ended
up being closed. At that point we were pretty well convinced that nothing is ever open in this village. Except the lavra.
As
we were walking, I stopped regularly to take photos of old cars and old
houses. At one point I looked over and saw an old truck sitting in a
field. It has clearly been there for a while and wasn't going anywhere,
because there was a tree growing through the front grill.
We found a Greek Catholic Church, and wanted to enter. Then we realized it was still under construction. Argh.
We
looked at our watches and realized it was finally time to go back to
catch the marshrutka for the ride back. It was kinda raining, and
generally unpleasant, we were more than ready to go.
The
marshrutka came on time, yay! The driver didn't give me back the right
change, so Oresta reminded him how math works, and I got the correct
amount back.
90
minutes later the marshrutka dropped us off in Lviv. We caught the tram
heading toward the city center, and hopped off when it got to the stop
close to where we wanted to eat lunch. (A late lunch is better than no
lunch.)
We
chose the restaurant Kumpel, which is a microbrewery with a good menu.
It is times like these that I really wish I could have a beer. The
options sounded so good. 90 minutes later we left, I was feeling fat and
happy.
We
walked to the hostel, and finally checked in. We rested for a few
minutes, then changed into slightly nicer clothes for our evening plans.
At
one point during my last trip I'd realized I had heaps of photos of the
opera house in Lviv, but had never attended a performance there. I
suggested the idea to Oresta, she was happy to come along. The opera
house in Lviv is an old European classic theater, very pretty. It's not
too big, it's not too small.
It
took us a while to figure out where to check out coats, as apparently
each coat check is only for designated areas of the theater. There were
no signs saying this, we only learned as each coat check lady told us we
were in the wrong place.
We
had chosen tickets for the center of the front row of the second
balcony. I'm sure plenty of people would say we were too far away, but I
thought we were in a perfect spot.
It drives me nuts to be off to one
side, and I don't like to be close enough to see the makeup. Plus, our
tickets were cheap, less than $10!
The
performance was fantastic. The choreography, acting, costumes, set,
etc... All of them were great. I started coughing in the middle of the
first act and had to leave for a few minutes, but came back and was able
to see the rest of the show. I'd love to see another performance.
We
stopped by a small market on the way back to the hotel, hoping to find
food for the next morning, then went to bed soon afterward.
The next morning Oresta went to find coffee and flowers while I didn't do much. When she came back we walked out together.
Since
Oresta grew up in Lviv, she knows the town quite well. She also has
relatives buried in different cemeteries around the city. She wanted to
honour a couple of those relatives by visiting one of the ceremonies, so
I went with her.
We
took a city bus (built/manufactured in Lviv, yay) to an area toward the
edge of town. Definitely NOT a touristy area. We followed the paved
street for a moment, then walked on a gravel/dirt path for a bit. The
cemetery itself was on top of a hill, with smaller homes still next door
and across the street.
Even
though she hadn't been there in a while, Oresta was able to find the
graves she was looking for. She cleaned off both of them, and laid some
of the flowers she'd bought earlier in the morning. It was nice for me
to learn about someone's personal connection to the area.
A
minute or two after leaving the cemetery Oresta reached into her pocket
for her phone and realized it wasn't there. She checked her purse and
it wasn't there either. We walked back to the cemetery, it wasn't there
either. Uh oh.
She
gave me her number and I called it, hoping we would hear the ring or
feel the buzz. Unfortunately, that didn't happen.
We walked back down
the hill and to the bus stop across the street from where we'd arrived.
On the way, Oresta used my phone to call her mom and tell her what she
thought had happened. (Phone falling out of her pocket on the bus, or
pickpocketed while we were on the bus.) Her mom called the phone as
well, and got no answer either.
We
went back to our hotel room to check, but the phone was not there.
Since Oresta hoped it had simply been left on the bus, we went back to
the us stop and got the phone numbers of the driver of our bus and
central bus administration. She called them both, but no one knew
anything. Boooo.
After
all the calls, we needed food. I suggested my current favourite place
in Lviv, the cafe that specializes in waffles. Yummy, as usual. I will
be back.
While
we were eating, Oresta's mom called my phone. She said she had
contacted a family friend, who would be going out to the cemetery to
look for the phone, just in case it ended up there and we had somehow
missed it. She expected Oresta to go as well.
We went back to the hotel to check out officially and store our bags for the rest of the day.
Oresta
then went back to the cemetery, and I started walking through Lviv. I
followed the route the tram I'd ridden takes to the edge of town. I
can't say that I saw anything stunning during this walk, but it was
nice. I felt as though I got to see parts of Lviv that are more 'normal'
if that makes sense.
Since
it is a Ukrainian city, of course I saw churches. Several of them. I
wonder if anyone has ever visited all the churches in this city.
Certainly not in one visit.
I climbed up to the second level of one of those churches. Watched a few people kiss icons in another church.
I
found a set of stars painted in various colors. They were filthy, with
dirty sludge, argh. I'd like to see them again when the weather is
better.
Eventually
I turned around and came back into the city center. The sun was sinking
in the sky (I think, though with the dark clouds it had been dark-ish
all weekend.)
By
that point I felt as if I'd seen enough for this visit to Lviv. So I
went back to the waffle place, and had another. I also ordered a salad,
in an attempt at being healthy.
Then
I went back to the hostel and hung out for a while and charged
batteries. Around 2100 I walked to another cafe, in the direction of the
train station. This was the cafe I'd discovered during my last visit,
the one with really good cherry strudel. I had a giant piece, just
because I wanted to.
Eventually it was time to go back to the train station, where I caught my night train back to Kyiv.
This won't be my last trip to Lviv!
