19 October 2015

greece: athens

I love to travel. It's even better when I have a reason to travel. Over this weekend, it was my birthday. That's as good a reason as any, right? It got even better when I found cheap flights to and from Athens. I'd been to Athens before, but that was in the summer of 1997, just over 18 years ago. Needless to say, it had been a while, so I didn't remember as much about the city as I should.
My flight arrived after 2230, I was able to hop on the metro train, and get into the city for 8 euro. I only had to transfer once, then came up to the surface just a few blocks from my hotel. After hearing for so long about the Greek economic crisis, I was expecting the public transport system to be a lot more run down. It was a very nice surprise to be on metro trains that seemed almost new.
I checked into the hotel just after midnight, then went to sleep. After checking email, facebook, and all that other stuff, of course. Gotta love free wifi :)
The next morning I started with the hotel breakfast, included in my rate. It was a nice spread, yay! Various forms of bread, feta cheese, cucumbers, tomatoes, yogurt, eggs, cereal, milk, tea, coffee, cheese, juice, deli meat. I didn't eat everything, but it did all look good.
It was a nice sunny day, and a whole lot warmer than in kyiv. I got to wear a spaghetti strap dress, yay! I started walking toward a main street, then took a right.
I first came to a small park, more like a platz. There was a small church on one side, but it was closed and I wasn't able to enter.
I walked around the whole platz, then followed another street. I wandered through some winding streets, and ended up in an area/intersection with heaps of second hand stores. Heaps of them. You can buy just about anything in these stores. I saw furniture, old stuff, toys, etc...
Another street took me to the edge of a tourist area. I saw another small church, this one was open. Very small, but beautiful. I lit two candles as I left. One for those in my life who are having struggles, and one for the happy moments everyone has.
I didn't really know where I was at the time, but it didn't take a genius to figure out it was a tourist area. Cafes, more signage than usual, (and plenty of English,) and parking. I used a triposo to figure out where I was standing. I followed another street, which was lined with more second hand shops. The shops spilled out onto the street, along with the people who were browsing. It wasn't easy to walk forward. A mess of people. I tend to get annoyed in situations like this, argh.
This street took me to monastirki square. Lots of people wandering around, a couple fruit vendors on one side. I saw a cafe with chocolate in the window, of course I investigated. I know I'd just eaten breakfast, but I couldn't pass up the snack size portion of chocolate mousse they had available :)
On one side of the square is a small monastery (hence the name of the square,) but the door was closed, so I wondered if it was just the building exterior I should see. This was only Saturday morning, I figured I had plenty of time to find out.
I walked out another side of the platz, coming to the entrance to Hadrian's Library. When I got to the ticket office, I found two options. I could buy a single entry ticket, good for just this one sight, or I could spend 12 euro, and get a ticket good for the library as well as six other major sights around the city. I opted for the 12 euro ticket.
There isn't much left of Hadrian's Library, but there are signs at various points around the ruins, describing what was once located there, what it probably looked like, and how it worked. Of notice was a family of turtles that seemed to live in these ruins.
I saw several turtles, each about 2 feet long. They moved a lot faster than I would've thought turtles move. Practically running!
There was also a tiny little museum, mostly showing statues I presume were located around the library?
Along the way to the hill, I walked through an area full of cafes and souvenir shops. I found postcards, yay! A rather large selection of postcards, I was in shopping heaven. Shopping heaven for me, anywho. I wish all cities and countries had selections this big!
Then I made my way toward the Acropolis. This is where I get to explain a couple things about names commonly used in Athens. The Acropolis is the big hill in the middle of the city, the Parthenon is a temple on the Acropolis. Technically, the word acropolis is used to describe a big hill, more specifically the fortified area on top of that hill. The Parthenon is just one of the temples on top of the acropolis of Athens, not the entire hill. The maps are full of the names of each of the temples, but I don't remember any of them, except the Parthenon. I doubt many people do. And I'm way too lazy to look up the names.
There are a few entrances to the acropolis, each of them gated, so they can make sure you have a ticket. The maps are split into the north side of the hill, and the south side, there are ruins of interest on each side of the hill. I came up the north side, then down the south side. (I think.)
Being on top of the Acropolis means you can look out over the entire city in all directions. Back when the Greek empire was in its heyday, the view up to the hill, and down from the hill must've been amazing. As it was, I loved looking out over the city. I could see several other ruins around the city, mixed in among the chaos of the modern city.
When I got to the top of the hill, I was disappointed to see the entire front of the Parthenon covered in scaffolding. I wonder how long it will be there, and what is being done. I can't imagine the entire temple is being rebuilt, but who knows. The scaffolding made it impossible to take that iconic photo with the Parthenon behind you. Darnit.
I also stumbled upon a U.S. sailor being reenlisted at the back side of the Parthenon. Totally awesome. I waited until the ceremony was done, then said 'thank you for your service' to the sailor. It was random, but I"m glad I saw it.
Over the other side of the acropolis, I saw the Odeon, which still looks pretty impressive. Too bad you don't get to climb down into the rows of seats.
After enjoying the breeze at the top of the hill for a while, I came back down. This time I found my way to the Ancient Agora. Google gives me this definition for agora: a public open space used for assemblies and markets. There are a number of ruins in the Ancient Agora, I didn't know what all of them are.
I did recognize the Church of the Holy Apostles. The church is small, no furniture in the interior. Most of it is white, but some of the original paintings are still there. Nice colours, very pretty. 
One more thing that was very identifiable in the Ancient Agora: the temple of Hephaestus. It's still in good shape, though I don't know how much of it is original, and how much as been added in modern times. There is a small area of landscaping around the temple, including pretty flowers. Another visitor took a photo I really liked, (I could see the display screen as she took the photo,) I asked her to take the same photo with me in it :)
Then I walked out of the Ancient Agora. About ten seconds later, I realized there was an area of the agora I hadn't seen, including a big building. (How I missed it I don't know.) Fortunately, the people at the gate let me back in without tearing off another part of the ticket.
This building was the Stoa of Attalos. Another definition according to google: a stoa is a covered walkway. This stoa has been completely rebuilt, and part of it is used as a museum. I loved seeing the old statues. Every photographer (amateur or professional) wants to take a photo looking down the walkway, with all the columns on either side.
Then I walked through the another second hand market area of Athens. Backpacks and bags, clothing, toys, souvenirs, etc... I stopped to eat at a random gyro place.
I ended up back in Monastirki square, filled with even more people.
Yet another side of the square led me to a street split in two. In the middle area was a row of trees. Very pretty. This street wasn't touristy, but it was pretty. I followed this street just because I could. Eventually I walked past the Athens Central Market, housed in a big pavilion. By the time I was there it was the end of the day, so most of the stalls had been packed up.
I could smell fish, lots of fish. Because of the fish and other stuff on the ground, one of the cleanup methods is spraying the ground with water. I didn't feel like walking through so much water, so I didn't go in. I'm guessing there is normally fresh produce, meat, and more in addition to the fish.
Continuing up the street I found another platz. On one side you could catch trolleys, or just sit. I was on the lookout for food, so I didn't sit. I knew my hotel was closeby, so I was hoping to find food.
I did find food. Quite a bit actually. I guess my hotel was located in an area of the city filled with immigrants from the south asian subcontinent. I saw restaurants with Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, and Nepalese food. YUM. Unfortunately, I saw these restaurants after I'd stopped at another and gotten a giant greek salad, minus the olives. (I can't stand olives, I've always felt that way.) I was way too full to get more food.
I went to bed fairly early that night, there was no reason for me to stay up late.
The next morning I  started with another hotel breakfast. Have I ever mentioned how much I like eating vegetables for breakfast? Greek salad for breakfast is awesome.
After breakfast, I walked out of the hotel in the same direction I had the morning before. This time I walked further along the main street, quite a bit further. Along the way I passed another small church. It was open, but I saw a sign indicating I needed a headscarf to go in, so I simply peered in from the door.
At one point along this street I saw amazing graffiti painted on the entire side of a building. Several 'panels' of the building were painted, each had a giant painting. I don't know whether to call it graffiti or not.
I passed another church, this one was quite a bit larger. I was able to step inside and enjoy the splendor of the paintings. I liked the quiet atmosphere too, I could only see one other person in there. A Greek Orthodox Church.
Eventually I came to my first stop of the day. The Industrial Gas Museum. It's definitely not at the top of most tourist hot spots in the city, but I liked it quite a bit.
There was a sign saying the entrance fee was 1 euro, but when I tried to pay at the cash desk the security guys waved me in and said it was free. Yahoo!
The museum is a complex, not just one building. Each building is a part of what was once the central gas complex for the city. Throughout each building there are descriptions of what you can see, what used to be there, and the people who worked there.
I loved seeing all the old machinery, and making sense of the descriptions of what happened. The people who worked in this plant worked really hard. Backbreaking hard work all day every day.
My favorite part was the building with the old coal stokes. Something about the aesthetic appeal, I don't know exactly what. I'm sure the people who shoveled all the coal into the stokes didn't care one way or the other. Or even notice the aesthetic appeal.
After exiting the museum complex, I crossed the street and walked back a block. I took another, smaller street and made my way to the entrance of the Kerameikos ruins. These ruins are another sight included in the 12 euro ticket I mentioned earlier.
Most of the area of Kerameikos is dedicated to graves, and their markers. Some were quite grand, some not so much. There was a small museum, which I walked through rather quickly.
There was also an area with regular streets and the stones leftover from homes. Not much was left of course. I liked the mosaic designs you could see on some of the floors.
Another section of Kerameikos shows what is left of the old city walls. Not much, but you can see how thick they were. I also came across an olive tree, very much alive.
The day before I'd seen turtles at Hadrians library. I saw more turtles at Kerameikos. I even saw two turtles having friendly 'relations.' Definitely not something I ever thought I would see.
I exited the area, and walked back toward the city center, toward the area in which I'd started the day before. I got to monastirki square, and looked in the same cafe for another snack size chocolate mousse. No dice, darn it. This time I walked into the monastery, which seemed crowded with stuff.
This ended up being a good thing. Instead of following the same street out the other side of the square, I continued walking on the street I was just on. Pretty soon it turned into a pedestrian zone. Lined with shops and and bakeries
One such bakery jumped out at me for no reason in particular. I walked in and had to choose what I wanted. So many choices, a tummy not big enough for all of them :) I ended up choosing two desserts in a cup. YUM.
This bakery was on one corner of a small platz. In the middle of the platz was another small church. It's hard to describe properly, but I would almost say the church was a bit sunken into the middle of the platz. People sat on the walls around the church.
No pictures were allowed inside the church, darn it. Because of that restriction, everyone took a photo of the mosaic over the door at the entry of the church. Plenty of ladies posing suggestively, which didn't seem right to me. Anywho, the interior wasn't super impressive. (Or maybe I'm just a jaded traveller.)
I continued walking down the street, which soon became unpedestrianized. That's probably not the right word, but I don't know how to say it wasn't a pedestrian zone anymore. The street took me to Syntagma Square, which has a fountain in the middle. Not a big fountain, and not impressive.
The square is across the street from the Greek parliament.
Again, my words fail me in how to describe how different things are placed. To get to the parliament building you have to go up steps. At street level, sort of under the parliament, is the tomb of the unknown soldier.
I've seen a tomb of an unknown soldier in a number of different countries. All different in terms of uniforms worn, and changing of the guards ceremonies, but all the same in terms of seriousness, and honor.
I got lucky, as the time I got to the tomb was just before the ceremony. I don't think guards changed at all, maybe they switched positions. Very cool to watch.
From the tomb I followed the street down, passing a park on my way to an arch. Hadrians arch I think? It was built as a welcome for a new empower way back in the day. You can see the Acropolis behind and up from the arch.
I walked along a fence to the entrance of another 12 euro ticket sight. The temple of Zeus. That isn't the official name of the specific area, as there are more ruins than just the temple, but people mainly come for the temple. Awesome. Not many of the columns are still standing, you can see a couple that have fallen over.
After walking around the whole area, seeing all of the ruins (including what remained of a bath house,) I walked back toward the arch. I crossed the street and followed a smaller street in the general direction up the hill.
Eventually (after getting completely turned around and walking in the wrong direction for a few minutes,) I found the entrance to my last 12 euro ticket sight. The theatre of Dionysus. You do get to walk around most of the seating of this one, all except what I would call the VIP seats, in the front row. From the top of the back seats there is a decent view over part of the city. Pretty.
After the theatre I was hungry. I found a cafe, and ordered moussaka and another Greek salad. (Again without olives, disgusting as they are.) My waiter pointed me in the right direction after I finished, so I was able to walk back in the general direction of monastirki square.
To get there I had to walk down some streets lined with cafes, some of which were full, and I could hear conversations quite well. The streets felt loud to me, not at all relaxing. I wonder if all the people were locals, or tourists, or both. And I wonder if any of the cafes had any really good food.
 When I got to monastirki square, I found the metro entrance, figured out how much to pay for a ticket, then hopped onto a train. I took the train all the way to the port where people find ships/ferries.
I stopped in another bakery and bought myself more treats. I like Greek bakeries :)
My original plan was to walk around the port, enjoying the scene. It turned out to be not very exciting.
Since I'd taken the train out to the port, I didn't want to turn around and go back straightaway. I found several churches, they were beautiful, and empty. As I walked the streets, I saw very few other people. Nice to get away from the crowds for a few minutes.
After a little while I did make my way back to the train. An easy ride back to monastirki square. I walked up the tree street just as I had the day before, because I knew where I was going.
I was quite excited to get back to my hotel and see the Indian/Pakistani/Halal restaurant across the street. I'm pretty sure I was the only person not from the subcontinent in there, as I could see several looks of surprise when I walked in.
There didn't seem to be a menu, instead I was asked what I wanted. I asked for palak paneer, which they had. I ordered a sweet lassi too. My idea of heaven :) My food came with another Greek salad (this is Greece, regardless of what type of cuisine is normally served in the restaurant,) and the guy delivered a dish of briyani as well, and said it was on the house. I ate as much as I could, which was a lot. By the time I left, I felt fat and happy.
I went to sleep pretty early back in the hotel. Then I had to wake up at 0200, leave the hotel at 0230, and walk to Syntagma Square. From there I caught a bus to the airport, and made my 0530 flight easily :)

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