Ukraine: Kharkov four years later

The first time I visited Kharkov was four years ago. That visit was with a friend, this time I was solo. 

Kharkov is the Russian name of the city, and that's what I'm using because it's a Russian speaking city. Kharkiv is the Ukrainian name, though locals don't use it much. It's one of the biggest cities in Ukraine, (3rd largest I think,) though I don't think it's high on anyone's list of places to go in the country.

The city is full of students, as there are a number of universities in Kharkov; I saw a lot of focus on architecture and engineering. By focus I mean the study of the schools, not the architecture of the city itself. 

My night train arrived just after sunrise, around 0630 on a beautiful Saturday morning. It was already warm, and the forecast told me it would get warmer throughout the day. 

My first photo was a panoramic shot, of the back side of the train station. Beautiful. Sometimes you get the lighting and sky just right. Also at the train station was a statue of one of the characters from the 12 chairs story. 

I walked to my hotel, about 3km I think. Since it was so early I had plenty of time to dawdle. Along the way I stopped to take photos of whateva caught my eye. Various memorials, churches, street art, etc... I also relaxed at different times, enjoying the silence of the morning hours.

All these things interest me, in different ways. I've lived here for a few years, and I've always thought Ukraine remembers. I've always thought there are three rules for being a proper Ukrainian city/town: one, you must have a statue of a guy on a horse; two, you must have a (big) WW2 memorial, and three, a statue of Taras Shevchenko. I also regularly see other individual memorials, statues, and event memorials and statues. 

Kharkov is no different. On my way to my hotel I saw a heroes memorial, and a Chernobyl memorial. (I knew I'd see other random memorials - and take photos of most of them -  during the rest of the weekend.)

The church that caught my eye during this walk is called the Annunciation Cathedral, I think it's one of the main churches in the city. The exterior makes me think of a candy cane, with all the stripes. As there was a service going on, I put a scarf on my head and stood in the back for a few moments. The interior isn't nearly as eye catching as the exterior, but it's still nice. I was surprised at the amount of movement in the back of the church during the service. People lighting candles at various places, people chatting with each other, buying items from the little stalls selling religious items. I expect this at other times, but not during services, but if I remember correctly, this church isn't open outside of service times. 

Across the street from the candy cane church is a monument to I don't know what. I could say it looks like a modern flower, sort of.

I crossed a bridge over a river that didn't have much water, going into another park. This park didn't have anything to see, but there were heaps of benches on which to sit and relax. Plus, this park was up the hill from the candy cane church, so there was a nice view.

On one boundary of the park was the outside of the wall going around a monastery complex. I knew I wanted to explore in there, later. 

I walked through Independence or maybe it is Constitution, Square, which was in much better shape than I remembered. On one end of the square there is a giant thermometer on the side of a building. I was thrilled to see the thermometer, as it wasn't there four years ago. (I wonder if this thermometer looks/is the same as the one listed in the guidebook, that wasn't there four years ago.)

Four years ago I think the city was preparing to play host to some of the games from the Euro 2012 competition, so some people in city administration wanted some changes. I remembered a big football in the middle of the square, which wasn't here this time. Thank goodness. I also remember this square being sort of under construction, that is, piles of bricks or something. It felt unfinished. Much better this time. 

As I got to the far corner of the area I realized I'd showed up on a great weekend. The Kharkov marathon had started just a few minutes previously, I got to watch a lot of people running down the street. I should run one of the races next year :)

Fortunately, the number of people running the race wasn't too high, so I didn't have to deal with blocked streets. (Though I saw some frustrated drivers who apparently didn't know what was happening.) My favorite section of fans was a group of ladies dressed in some sort of traditional clothing. Awesome.

I was able to check in early, yay! I relaxed and charged my phone :)

I started walking again, heading up the street of my hotel. The street dead ended when it came to the side of the national academic theater of opera and ballet.

 In one area I saw a lot of graffiti, as well as a lot of pallets in stacks. I don't know if there was a specific reason for this area, but I liked it. 

Across the street from the theater is the mirror stream fountain. There was no water, so there was no mirror, and no fountain. On one end of the fountain is a big arch/cupola, which is, of course, great for posed pictures. Which means there are heaps of people taking photos, and not usually paying attention to anyone else taking photos, except to ask them to move. (I saw quite a few people get in the frame of other folks' photos right after demanding their own space.)

This fountain/arch is at one end of a park square. At the other end is a church. Called the Temple of the Myrrh Bearers.its nothing special, and felt rather new. (After looking at my photos from four years ago, I figured out this church is indeed very new, as it wasn't there four years ago.) The iconostasis is pretty, but there wasn't much else in terms of decoration. I didn't stay inside for very long.

A couple blocks later I stopped for lunch, a waffle with some sort of savory topping. Yummy, but not exceptional. (I don't expect anything exceptional in terms of food in this country, people don't travel in Ukraine for great cuisine.)

Across the street from where I ate lunch is a small park known for its statue of lovers kissing. Architects Square I think it's called. Around the edge of the park are miniatures of many of the buildings found around Kharkov. Each miniature is in a plastic/glass box, so photos don't work out as well as you want.

I walked down Pushkin street in the sunshine, to the synagogue. The front gate was open, but as I walked in, two security guards questioned where I was going. I said I just wanted to see the synagogue, they were surprised. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to see it just to see it? Unfortunately, there is a constant undercurrent of anti-semitism in this country, though I've never understood why. 

The lobby area of the synagogue had a few museum type displays of Jewish items used in daily life as well as religious rites. The interior security guard turned on the lights for me at each display.

Then I walked into the 'sanctuary.' I don't know what this area is called in a synagogue, so I'm using the word I do know, which is what Presbyterians use. It was lovely. A great high ceiling, with drawings in the front. Women were studying on one side, men on another. There was a sense of peace that words don't describe adequately. 

After leaving the synagogue I walked back toward what I think of as the city centre platz. On the way I passed the fiddler on the roof sculpture. It's nifty, sorta. Difficult to get good photos unless you have a lens that zooms quite a way without distortion.

I walked past a church that only seems to be open for special concerts. I think there is an organ in there, maybe I will get lucky enough to go in during a visit. (Whether or not something is open is only from my experience, not from fact.) This church and tower are in many photos of the city, you can't miss them if you are anywhere near the city center.

I found postcards in a tiny stall in a park across the street. I also found a frog for my sister.

Then I actually went in the monastery complex I mentioned earlier. Just as pretty as I remembered from four years ago.

This is one of those places where women have to wear a skirt and headscarf to go in the church, so they have both available to be borrowed. I covered myself and walked in. I liked the ceiling better than the rest of the church, but that's normal for me. 

This monastery is next to constitution square, which feels pretty big to me. I sat on a bench and watched people for a while, just because I could. With great weather it's so nice to do that. Then I went back to my hotel and dropped off the postcards and frog. Go figure, as I left the hotel again I forgot my camera and had to take all photos for the rest of the day with my phone. 

I walked up the main street to Shevchenko park, and walked through the back to the end of the park. There is supposed to be a fountain there, but the water hadn't been turned on yet, so it looks terrible. Old concrete, a few weeds growing, lots of dirt. Argh.

The Shevchenko statue at the front of the park is big. It's surrounded by 16 characters, I think they are supposed to represent the people of the country.

Further up the main street is Svobody Square. Freedom Square. I figured out it was the starting and finishing point for the races I'd seen earlier in the day, as plenty of race stuff was still set up. 

At one end of the platz is what remains of a statue of Lenin. From what I could see, a Ukrainian flag was posted on a pole coming out of his shoes. The reasons he is no longer there are patriotic, but I'm still glad I got to see him four years ago. 

I continued walking and took a closer look at the Derzhprom building than I have before. It's BIG.

The architect designed it so walkways connect three sections, over two streets. Big and boring. Some of the building is still in use, but I'm pretty sure most of it is in dire need of updating. 

The University building on another side of the area is also big and boring and very Soviet looking. 

I left the platz and went back to the main street, eventually finding what tripadvisor calls a sculpture garden. I wouldn't go that far, as I only saw a handful of sculptures. The whole thing is in a courtyard of a building, right next to a cafe. 

During my last visit to Kharkov I remember taking a cable car ride (of sorts) across a park, and my next goal was to do it again. Further up the main street I found the park where I could do so. Yahoo!! The price for a one way ride (more than 10 minutes long!!) was less than a dollar. Yay!! I waited in a queue, but the queue moved quickly, the wait was less than 10 minutes. I was there at a beautiful time of day, as the sun was going down, and the sky was beginning to change colour. Lovely. 

After finishing I was on the other side of the park, which is quite big, so I walked down a hill to a metro station. Two stops later I was back in the big platz. Just like in Kyiv, the metro stations in Kharkov are each very different. 

By that point it was dark, so I went to dinner, then walked a bit more. The arch I mentioned earlier was lit up very nicely, as was the church behind it. Not surprisingly, there was a queue (disorganized of course) of people wanting to take photos. 

The next morning I had the best intentions of getting moving early, and it almost happened. Except that I woke up too early. 0500 isn't a great time to wake up, as the sun wasn't up, and my breakfast wasnt scheduled until 0800. I went back to sleep, and only woke up when the front desk lady knocked on my door with breakfast. Breakfast wasn't anything special, mostly processed, but it only cost 30 griven and was delivered to me :)

Since this hotel room had a bathtub, I took advantage and relaxed for a while. There wasn't enough hot water left when I rinsed off under the shower afterward, not so fun to take an unexpected cold shower. 

When I checked out I was able to leave my backpack at the hotel so I didn't have to carry it around all day. Not that it was heavy, but I always prefer to carry as little as possible. 

My first stop for the day was back at the monastery from yesterday. I wanted a photo in better lighting, and was able to get it. Yesterday's photo was backlit, which I never like. 

A couple blocks over and down a hill I walked into the central market of the city. I'm sure it isn't the only market in the city, but I am sure it is the largest and most permanent. I found spices, dairy products, meat of all kinds, pickled everything, and dry goods. There were other sections as well, I could've bought some household goods, clothing, etc... I ended up buying kimchi, powdered ginger, honey, and some sweets. 

I took my purchases back to the hotel and added them to my backpack.

I walked up the main street again, moving faster than before. I remembered another spot from my previous visit that I wanted to see again. During the last visit we took a bus, but I wanted to walk this time. I looked at google maps, which told me the walk would be 90 minutes, but I got there in less than an hour, and figured out trip advisor has it marked in the wrong place on a map. 

On the way I passed a statue (it looked like concrete painted white,) of a cyclist. I didn't see a sign anywhere, so I have no idea who or what it honors. 

The glory memorial is a huge WW2 memorial. There is a long walkway made of some kind of pink stone, at the end of which is a large statue of a lady who looks a lot like the lady in Kyiv. As you're walking down the path, there are other, smaller memorials off to the side. 

Off to one side of the statue lady is a long  memorial with names of those who died. At the foot of the lady is an eternal flame, and flowers placed there recently. 

Four years ago there were heaps of flowers, but not nearly so many this time. Last time it was a holiday weekend, but not during this visit. It was nice to know that flowers are always there, even if sometimes in smaller quantities. Those who have given their lives fighting for their countries should always be honored. Always. 

On the way back into the city I took a bus part of the way, then got off at a random stop. I walked along another street, passing another group of statues, these were also part of the 12 chairs story. I really do need to learn the story, though I don't know if I can find it in English.

Further along the street I came to the Holocaust Museum. It isn't well known, and it isn't big, and it isn't well marked. I walked past it before figuring out I'd missed it. The building itself is huge, and the museum is just a small part, on the 2nd floor.

I rang the bell, the door was answered by an older lady. Behind her I could see a table with food and a group of ladies. I didn't know why they were gathered, but it seemed that the museum was closed. I hadn't seen any hours posted anywhere, so I don't know if my arrival was at a time when the museum is normally closed. The lady asked me why I was there (I think,) and I answered that I wanted to see the museum. 

The lady asked me if I could come back the next day, but I answered that I couldn't because I had a night train back to Kyiv. (All my speaking was in very basic Russian and English, hers was in Russian.) This caused a discussion among the ladies, so I tried to say I was going to leave. But that didn't happen either. They got the English speaking lady of the group to invite me in, then she gave me a tour. The museum is just two rooms, but she gave me explanations for nearly all the exhibits. There were items left behind, money used during the war, documents from the government of the time, etc... It was really moving, especially when she described the personal connections to some of the ladies in the gathered group. 

Amazing, (not in a good way, if that makes sense,) and sad. Never again. Never forget. 
There were photos of some of  the Jews of the city who were deported and killed during WW2, as well as photos of people who were given the honor of being called Yad Vashem, righteous among the nations, for helping some of the Jews of the city. Every time I see a museum or memorial to this time/'event' in history I walk away feeling stunned that such an awful thing happened. It usually takes some time to clear my head, and feel positive about the world. This kind of a museum is negative, but necessary.

After the museum, I walked back to the city center, and found a restaurant for dinner. A place advertising all you can eat meat for a set price. Yum! I know eating meat isn't helping the planet, but I have a hard time turning down a place that offers all you can eat meat. For a little over $7, there is a set menu with a variety of meat being served. Chicken wings, pork, veal, etc... There is also a tray of side dishes, and a couple bread rolls. A drink is not included, but even with that added cost, my meal still cost less than $10. I was stuffed when I left.

By that point it was after dark so I went back to the hotel to sit in the lounge for an hour before walking back to the train station. On the way I passed the candy cane church, which was lit up. It still looks like a lot of candy canes to me, and still eye catching. 

I caught my train back to Kyiv, another easy ride :)