02 May 2017

cyprus: girne/kyrenia

After seeing postcards of Girne at a shop in Lefkosa (the northern side of the city of Nicosia,) I knew I wanted to visit. The postcards all showed a picturesque harbour, I wanted to see it for myself.
I had to get up early to make this day trip happen, which I wasn't keen to do, but oh well. My sunburn from the day before had fully set in, so wearing clothes to cover my skin didn't feel very good. On the other hand, I knew I couldn't wear anything with straps again, or the sun would've felt even worse.
Since I'd already figured out where the bus stop would be in Lefkosa, it was easy to get back to the bus stop. I saw just one person in the streets of either side of the city, thankfully it was someone with food. Pretzels are just as good a breakfast as any other, right?
The bus was right where I expected it to be, and after boarding it didn't take long to depart. This kind of bus doesn't usually have a departure time, I was worried I'd have to wait for it to fill up, which could've taken the entire morning. It wasn't full when it departed, but I didn't care.
A bit over an hour later, we arrived in Girne.
(Since Turkish is the language spoken on this side of the island, that's the name I'm using. The name in Greek is Kyrenia.) I used the maps to figure out where to go, which didn't take long.
I walked through a parkplatz and what I thought was a small park to go toward the city center. When I stopped to read a small sign I realized it wasn't a park, it was an old Ottoman cemetery. Pretty flowers around the area.
I followed the city streets as they sloped down, passing what used to be a couple of towers in the old city walls. The walls don't really exist anymore, but some of the towers still stand.
The government seems to be renovating a lot of the historical bits and pieces, probably in an effort to attract more tourists. I also passed a church that was missing a roof. I love old buildings!
Eventually I made it all the way down to the harbour. It wasn't quite as pretty as in the postcard photos, but that didn't surprise me. Or maybe I was there at the wrong time of day, who knows. Restaurants had crammed themselves into the land side of the harbour, you actually have to walk through a few seating areas to get to the boardwalk along the water.
All the restaurants were really cute, but I wasn't hungry and didn't want to pay those prices.
The harbour itself was also really crowded with boats. There were some bigger boats, which seemed aimed at tourist group tours. There were smaller speedboats, and fishing boats as well. The fishing boats were not all in great condition, I could smell stale water from time to time.
The harbour is protected by a wall, which was nice to walk along. It's a man made wall, with a concrete sidewalk for most of the way. This 'arm' reaches out mostly parallel to the harbour, so boats don't have a lot of area to play with when they're entering or leaving the harbour.
I walked to the end of the arm, just because I could.
I left the harbour through another one of the many small streets that come down the area behind the harbour. The streets are all small, and the homes don't have much space. By this point I'd realized that many doors are beautiful, whether they're painted or made with carved wood, or a combination of the two.
At one point I came to what I thought was a church. As I climbed the steps I saw the sign that told me it was actually a museum, and was closed for renovation. Based on the level of dust and rubbish, I don't know if any actual work was being done at the time. I really wish I'd been able to take a quick peek inside, but it was most definitely closed and locked.
At this point it was around 1115, and I still wasn't seeing many people. I don't know if it was typical for a Monday morning, or what, but the whole town seemed really quiet.
I wandered through more small streets, though nothing more caught my eye. It's a small town that seems to depend mostly on the tourism monies that come from having a gorgeous little harbour.
I did skip one sight, that of a castle. I did want to see it, but when I looked at my watch I realized I didn't have time. The maps and apps told me there was a shipwreck museum inside the castle, which must be at least a little interesting. Maybe next time?
I made my way back to the bus stop, and found a bus that left just 15 minutes after I boarded. An hour later I was back in Nicosia.

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