ukraine: ivano-frankivsk (it used to be stanislav)

I didn't originally intend to visit Ivano Frankivsk during this trip, but train schedules made it necessary to spend the day in the city. Wikipedia tells me the city is called Frank by locals, but who knows. Wikipedia also tells me that the name of the city is relatively new, it was known as Stanislav until 1962.

Ivano Frankivsk is the capital of the oblast, so of course it is where I had to come to go and get back to Kyiv from my days in the Carpathian Mountains. On the way back, I had to take a train from the mountains that arrived in Ivano Frankivsk at 0440, in the morning.

Since it was still before dawn I found the waiting room in the train station and dozed for almost four hours.

When I finally left the station I walked along a road that brought me to a church. (Surprise, a church in Ukraine.) This one wasn't listed on a travel app anywhere, it was just a 'regular' church. There were two beggars sitting out front. I didn't give them anything, but felt sortof guilty about it. The church wasn't exciting or unique in any way.

From there I kept walking, and the road took me to a giant government building. I think it was the general administration building for the entire oblast (state.) I didn't go in, as I'm pretty sure it isn't open for tours. I remember this building from my first visit, when there was a protest camp set up on the square in front. (The protest camp was the local 'branch' of the protest camp in Kyiv.) There was a statue of someone in front of the building, but that's it time time around.

On an adjacent street was where I spent the next couple hours. I went into a cafe and stayed there for a while, just because I could. Their wifi worked relatively well, which was also nice.

From the cafe I could see both the government building and another church. I don't know the name of this church, but it is listed in guidebooks and on travel apps. In my head I think of it as the blue church. I peeked into the church, but saw immediately that there was a private ceremony taking place, so I backed out straightaway.

My walk took me to City Hall, which is unique as far as city halls go, especially in this country.

The shape is distinct, and there is a gold dome on top. The sign on the front of the building says it is the only secular building in the country with a gold dome on top.

Like Lviv, the city hall in Ivano Frankivsk has a tower, and visitors can climb the stairs up to the observation deck. I walked in the front door and paid my fee to climb (only 20 griven, less than a dollar,) and up I went. The top two thirds of the climb was on very tight spiral staircases. The spirals were so tight I was almost dizzy from spinning around so much.

The view was nice. It wasn't spectacular, but I enjoyed looking out over the city. It was cold and windy, I could feel the wind a lot while I was up there.

There was also a museum in City Hall, but I skipped that. I saw some artwork on the walls but I"m not much of an art museum person, especially when I have limited time.

Back down the stairs and out of the building, and I kept walking. I wasn't looking at a map, and ended up going in the opposite direction of where I'd intended, but oh well. I ended up in a giant local market area. Stalls selling everything from food to clothing to toiletries, etc... I didn't need or want any of it, but it was nice to walk through and look. Part of the market is in a large circular building, which looked different if nothing else.

I circled around the entire market, then headed back in the direction I'd originally wanted to go. I got to what I thought was a church, but it turned out to be another art museum. I'm pretty sure it was originally a church. There is a bell tower with this church, but it is out front of the church. I thought about going in the museum, but opted to skip it at this point. I wonder if the bells ever ring.

Not too far from the church/art museum was another church, the Holy Ressurection Church. The front facade is tall, but not particularly exciting. The inside of the church is gorgeous.

It's not a place I will ever want to worship, as it is too busy, but I definitely appreciate the beauty of the art. The entire interior is painted in bright colours, with a lot of variety in the colours. The iconostasis at the front is gold, a few levels high. There are a few pews in which you can sit, which told me it wasn't an Orthodox church, as those don't have pews for worshippers. This was a Greek Catholic Church.

There were people coming in regularly, both people who wanted to pray and those who were visitors like me. I took my photos, but I also sat for a few minutes and enjoyed the atmosphere.

It's absolutely beautiful.

From the church I walked to City Lake. When I'd been in the city for a couple hours on Saturday morning I'd walked to the lake but I hadn't had time to walk around. This time I had plenty of time, so I walked all the way around the lake. The path isn't in good condition, though some repairs are being done. I imagine there are more people walking around the lake in better weather. (It was a nice day, but windy and much colder than I wanted for the middle of May.)

There is a small island in the middle of the lake, with benches and a couple photo taking spots. Nothing worth getting excited about. I liked the bridge to get to the island better than the island itself.

When I got back to where I'd started I made my way to City Park, not too far away. There is a main pedestrian walkway through one side of the park, good for strolling. There are a number of paved paths through the trees in another area, with benches for sitting. (I saw entirely too many couples sitting and making out – or more – on those benches.)

There are a couple small ponds in the park, but neither one of them had good water circulation, I could see stuff growing that shouldn't be growing in a well circulated body of water. The park is a great place for people watching.

I walked back toward the city center and somehow found the tourism information center, which I'd missed earlier in the day. They had a few postcards, and magnets. This was where I found out the city has only had the name of Ivano-Frankivsk since 1962. Before that it was called Stanislav.

Interestingly, I noticed the name of Stanislav (in several languages!) on more than one manhole cover while I walked around the city.

Also in the city center was a pink and white library building. Probably not the colours I would've chosen, but hey, who am I to say?!?

There were small stalls selling coffee and sandwiches and the like, but not all of them were open. I suppose they will be when the weather is guaranteed to be better.

From there I walked to dinner, which I had in the same place I'd had lunch. To get to this cafe I walked past the blue church again, and go figure, it was hosting another private ceremony! Will I ever get to go inside this church?

I hung out in the cafe for a few hours, eating and drinking. From there it was a short walk back to the train station. My train left about ten minutes late and I arrived on time in Kyiv the next morning.

I would like to come back to this region, but probably not back to Ivano-Frankivsk except for transit.