ukraine: ivano-frankivsk (it used to be stanislav)

I didn't originally intend to visit Ivano Frankivsk during this trip, but train schedules made it necessary to spend the day in the city. Wikipedia tells me the city is called Frank by locals, but who knows. Wikipedia also tells me that the name of the city is relatively new, it was known as Stanislav until 1962.

Ivano Frankivsk is the capital of the oblast, so of course it is where I had to come to go and get back to Kyiv from my days in the Carpathian Mountains. On the way back, I had to take a train from the mountains that arrived in Ivano Frankivsk at 0440, in the morning.

Since it was still before dawn I found the waiting room in the train station and dozed for almost four hours.

When I finally left the station I walked along a road that brought me to a church. (Surprise, a church in Ukraine.) This one wasn't listed on a travel app anywhere, it was just a 'regular' church. There were two beggars sitting out front. I didn't give them anything, but felt sortof guilty about it. The church wasn't exciting or unique in any way.

From there I kept walking, and the road took me to a giant government building. I think it was the general administration building for the entire oblast (state.) I didn't go in, as I'm pretty sure it isn't open for tours. I remember this building from my first visit, when there was a protest camp set up on the square in front. (The protest camp was the local 'branch' of the protest camp in Kyiv.) There was a statue of someone in front of the building, but that's it time time around.

On an adjacent street was where I spent the next couple hours. I went into a cafe and stayed there for a while, just because I could. Their wifi worked relatively well, which was also nice.

From the cafe I could see both the government building and another church. I don't know the name of this church, but it is listed in guidebooks and on travel apps. In my head I think of it as the blue church. I peeked into the church, but saw immediately that there was a private ceremony taking place, so I backed out straightaway.

My walk took me to City Hall, which is unique as far as city halls go, especially in this country.

The shape is distinct, and there is a gold dome on top. The sign on the front of the building says it is the only secular building in the country with a gold dome on top.

Like Lviv, the city hall in Ivano Frankivsk has a tower, and visitors can climb the stairs up to the observation deck. I walked in the front door and paid my fee to climb (only 20 griven, less than a dollar,) and up I went. The top two thirds of the climb was on very tight spiral staircases. The spirals were so tight I was almost dizzy from spinning around so much.

The view was nice. It wasn't spectacular, but I enjoyed looking out over the city. It was cold and windy, I could feel the wind a lot while I was up there.

There was also a museum in City Hall, but I skipped that. I saw some artwork on the walls but I"m not much of an art museum person, especially when I have limited time.

Back down the stairs and out of the building, and I kept walking. I wasn't looking at a map, and ended up going in the opposite direction of where I'd intended, but oh well. I ended up in a giant local market area. Stalls selling everything from food to clothing to toiletries, etc... I didn't need or want any of it, but it was nice to walk through and look. Part of the market is in a large circular building, which looked different if nothing else.

I circled around the entire market, then headed back in the direction I'd originally wanted to go. I got to what I thought was a church, but it turned out to be another art museum. I'm pretty sure it was originally a church. There is a bell tower with this church, but it is out front of the church. I thought about going in the museum, but opted to skip it at this point. I wonder if the bells ever ring.

Not too far from the church/art museum was another church, the Holy Ressurection Church. The front facade is tall, but not particularly exciting. The inside of the church is gorgeous.

It's not a place I will ever want to worship, as it is too busy, but I definitely appreciate the beauty of the art. The entire interior is painted in bright colours, with a lot of variety in the colours. The iconostasis at the front is gold, a few levels high. There are a few pews in which you can sit, which told me it wasn't an Orthodox church, as those don't have pews for worshippers. This was a Greek Catholic Church.

There were people coming in regularly, both people who wanted to pray and those who were visitors like me. I took my photos, but I also sat for a few minutes and enjoyed the atmosphere.

It's absolutely beautiful.

From the church I walked to City Lake. When I'd been in the city for a couple hours on Saturday morning I'd walked to the lake but I hadn't had time to walk around. This time I had plenty of time, so I walked all the way around the lake. The path isn't in good condition, though some repairs are being done. I imagine there are more people walking around the lake in better weather. (It was a nice day, but windy and much colder than I wanted for the middle of May.)

There is a small island in the middle of the lake, with benches and a couple photo taking spots. Nothing worth getting excited about. I liked the bridge to get to the island better than the island itself.

When I got back to where I'd started I made my way to City Park, not too far away. There is a main pedestrian walkway through one side of the park, good for strolling. There are a number of paved paths through the trees in another area, with benches for sitting. (I saw entirely too many couples sitting and making out – or more – on those benches.)

There are a couple small ponds in the park, but neither one of them had good water circulation, I could see stuff growing that shouldn't be growing in a well circulated body of water. The park is a great place for people watching.

I walked back toward the city center and somehow found the tourism information center, which I'd missed earlier in the day. They had a few postcards, and magnets. This was where I found out the city has only had the name of Ivano-Frankivsk since 1962. Before that it was called Stanislav.

Interestingly, I noticed the name of Stanislav (in several languages!) on more than one manhole cover while I walked around the city.

Also in the city center was a pink and white library building. Probably not the colours I would've chosen, but hey, who am I to say?!?

There were small stalls selling coffee and sandwiches and the like, but not all of them were open. I suppose they will be when the weather is guaranteed to be better.

From there I walked to dinner, which I had in the same place I'd had lunch. To get to this cafe I walked past the blue church again, and go figure, it was hosting another private ceremony! Will I ever get to go inside this church?

I hung out in the cafe for a few hours, eating and drinking. From there it was a short walk back to the train station. My train left about ten minutes late and I arrived on time in Kyiv the next morning.

I would like to come back to this region, but probably not back to Ivano-Frankivsk except for transit.

Ukraine: Ivano Frankivsk

My visit to Ivano Frankivsk started a lot earlier in the day than I would've preferred...to get there from uzhgorod, I had to take two trains; the first to Lviv, and from there to Ivano...my second train arrived at 0415...ugh...even at this time of year, the sun isn't up at that hour...since I barely slept on either train (1828-0043 and 0114-0414) I was completely out of it and really need some sleep...I sat in the waiting room in Ivano for a couple hours, trying to fall asleep while at the same time holding into my belongings in a way that prevented anyone from taking anything...it didn't work well, but helped a bit...it was hard to do in a regular chair, not spread out at all...

Around 0630, a police officer came through the room, waking people up and kicking all of us out...he came over to me twice, apparently I wasn't moving fast enough...booo...
I started walking, since there were no other choices...it was sunny, but chilly, and because of the hour (on a Sunday morning!) there was no one else on the streets...
I found a big WW2 memorial...i should be used to it by now, but it still amazes me to see these memorials in almost every city or town it visit in Ukraine...the US could learn something from the way Ukraine and other countries actually memorialize their dead, and soldiers who are still living...

(Memorial Day in the states is more about family BBqs and shopping sales)...memorials here are big, with many individual names listed...
I kept walking, finding my way to the city center...along the way I walked through quiet residential neighborhoods, and past the regional government building...in front of that building was the Ivano version of the protest camp set up on maidan in kyiv...the Ivano version is a bit smaller, with just one tent and a truck...there was also a memorial area (with photos, candles, and flowers) of those who died on maidan, in February...the flag (see the photo to the left) looks like angels are flying...

I passed two lovely churches, and found city hall in the middle of the square in the city center...city hall is a very modern building, looking nothing like anything else I've seen in Ukraine...hard to explain..as I was walking through this area I could see people setting up a market...
I walked to a pedestrian area, looking for a place to have breakfast...since it was still before 0800, nothing was open...one of the places listed in lonely planet wasn't there anymore...I ended up at a place called street coffee, having tea (with lots of milk) and cherry strudel...they had free wifi, and I found a plug with which I could charge my iPhone :)

After wasting two hours in the cafe, I walked again...I failed in my mission to find a place that seeks postcards, booo...by this time, the market (which seemed to be spread all over the city centre area) was in full swing...I'm still kicking myself for not buying any of the honey I saw...lots of places selling 'traditional' shirts, and so much else...I don't know if this is a weekly market, or a one time thing, or a holiday market, etc...
I walked along a street, eventually making my way to the city lake...I'm guessing it is man made, but I don't know for sure...there is a small island in the middle, connected to the 'shore' by a pretty little bridge...

I walked all the way around the lake, which didn't take me long as the lake isn't big...I saw a lot of people fishing off the edge, I wonder if anything was biting? Bugs loved me, so I didn't stand still anywhere for long...
Back into the city centre, just wandering...eventually I found a place for lunch...it wasn't a great experience, as the guy who originally took my order had to come back and ask again, as he had forgotten what I ordered...then, two more waitresses came to ask for my order, not knowing I'd already been asked...this restaurant didn't seem organized at all...when my food came, only half of it was correct...

I said so, but they left the wrong food on my table and in my bill...I showed the waitress what it was I had actually ordered, and I thought she would bring it to me, but that never happened...when I asked for my bill and found the wrong item still listed, I was really irked...how many mistakes can be made in the order of one particular item??? I only had to pay for the item I did order, and eat...
I went back to street coffee, as they knew what they were doing :)
My train left Ivano at 1700...for over an hour I was stuck sitting next to a couple alternately talking and making out...GET A ROOM!! Ewww...